A Day Trip to Shenzhen – Day 2

 

I awaken naturally at 6.20 am, and soon realise the room only offers Chinese Green Tea vs Chinese Black Tea. No Coffee then! I am pretty sure the restaurant will be working by 7am, so take a shower and try to wake to the new day. It is hopeless without coffee, as you may already know I am a night owl, not a daybreak person. In fact, I usually go to sleep as the sun rises! It would be a very boring world if we were all the same – and you should trust me on this one hehe!

 

By 6.57 I am showered, dressed and packed + ready for action which, definitely involves caffeine! I have absolutely no idea what this day will bring, or even why I am here … but Adventurous Aries quite like these situations when they have nothing better to do. Bring-it on!

 

At 6.58 I tap on Hester’s door, next one to mine … knocking … knocking again, etc. No reply. Ok, I will be selfish and simply head for the coffee then. It would appear I am the first breakfaster, and am greeted by the same staff who were on duty the night before at midnight – or is that actually today if it was 1-minute passed midnight when I last departed? Well, for normal people this is the next day, and I wander and wonder around the breakfast offerings. Essentially, if you are a Mainland Chinese person, and like precooked food kept warm in posh skillets, then you could fill your boots here. I have a little difficulty at first, as the Chinese breakfast rotunda, and the ‘Western’ breakfast rotunda; appear to be so similar that I conclude it is all Chinese food – except some dishes are made to appear slightly western?

 

The rotunda thingymagigs are typical of western hotels, and have perhaps 30 main dishes on each one. Each dish is in a stainless steel server with lid, and some are candle-powered. You know the type of thing I am sure. Aside and intermingling are other delights, such as fresh fruits and Chinese delicacies like chickens feet in chillie sauce. The Western one also has some ready sliced Chinese French bread, which is obviously made with cement flour. The Chinese rotunda appears a little better, as at least I recognise most of the dishes; even if they do not appeal as breakfast fare. In the kitchen corner I espy a chef with large white hat. Curious a wander over and find he is offering eggs: hard boiled, scrambled, or fried. Excellent! Aside is a drinks help-yourself, offering: hot water, cold water, several Chinese teas, Juices: mango, pear, possibly blackcurrant, and something I have no idea what it is. There is also something related vaguely to milk, and another brew which looks a little like custard.

 

No coffee then!

 

I think there may be a couple of things I could try; but really need coffee – so I go and sit down at an empty table (Well, they are all empty actually), and beckon a waitress. Flushing and venturing nearby, I ask her for ‘Ga-Fey’. She beams and runs away before I can make sure she knows I want a very large one. If this doesn’t work out right, I’m having a Long Island Iced Tea, and sod it! Whilst I await, I give Hester a call to let her know where I am, but the phone rings out. A different waitress arrives bringing a large cup of coffee, creamers, and lots of sachets of brown sugar. She even knows a little ‘In-ger-wishy’. Heaven! Damn, but this stuff is good, and definitely Arabica beans. I order another, and it appears promptly. Top Hole! I am a little bit worried, no - interested in what Hester may be up to, so decide to pay my bill and go knock on her door again. This I do, and again without reply. Our arrangement was to meet for breakfast at 8am, and it is now 8.10am. Ok, things happen I guess. I go back to my room and turn on the TV. It took me 10-minutes, but I actually found a Jackie Chan film in Cantonese – when there comes an enormous knocking from my door. Answering Hester bursts in like the sun is rising, and remonstrates me why I was asleep last night. I ignore the obvious reply, and say ‘What time?’ She then tells me I wasn’t answering my door 20 minutes after we departed. I say I was chilling in the bar with a beer. She tells me that is unacceptable and I should have answered my door. I try again, to explain that I was not there. She really doesn’t get this at all, so I try saying I was in the restaurant. The light dawns, and after a moments consideration she derides me for going to the restaurant and not informing her first. And this would be a few minutes after we said goodnight to each other then. Yes! Seeing as this is leading nowhere, I ask her why she didn’t give me a call on my mobile – Jesus – she rang me several dozen times yesterday. By way of reply she marches out of my room, telling me not to leave. I’ll get back to Jackie Chan then; meanwhile my subconscious is still mulling over the breakfast offerings on floor three.

 

After ten or fifteen minutes, Hester again knocks my door, and bustles in with her suitcase already packed. She tells me we are leaving soon and I had better pack pronto. I lift up my rucker and tell her it is already done. She is not impressed, and then starts to unpack her own suitcase in my room. A tad odd, even for Hester? At the very bottom she removes a large cardboard package, which later reveals a picture of her cat, and a Gemstone Picture of the same, life-sized. Wow! This is totally excellent, and even has a gem map and stone samples identification guide on the back. She wants me to take pictures of it to reproduce on our website – except she refuses to take it out of the ornate frame; so I already know all my pictures taken now will have glass reflection haze. She gives me a miniature to keep, and then packs this with all the rest of her belongings. She then needs a serious word with me, so she decides it is time we went down for breakfast. She appears aghast that I have already been down there once, and wants to know the intricate details of how I even knew where to go … well it’s not rocket science is it (And rocket science is itself essentially very simple = light the blue touch-paper and run!). She is even more baffled when the staff recognise me and greet me, and not her. However, we then have a small problem because the waitress who looked after me last time is not available, and the other staff know I was here a few minutes before. The first waitress took my complementary meal ticket, so now I do not have one and they don’t want to let me in unless I pay. I try explaining that all I had was coffee last time, and that was at extra charge. Fortunately Hester appears to get the hang of this exchange, and we are allowed to sit at a table. However, I am not allowed to go and select any food until the original waitress comes back from somewhere and says it is ok, and that I only had coffee last time.

 

Hester immediately selects a table that just happens to be booked by somebody else. She is not impressed and proceeds to choose three more before deciding the Feng Sui is right. Once we are finally ensconced in our cubicle, I beckon the waitress from before and order a coffee in Cantonese. Hester looks at me for a few moments, and then she decides we should fill our plates. OK. I am then introduced by her to the offerings of the Chinese breakfast rotunda. She wants to heap my bowl with a form of sticky rice = Rice, sweet molasses, and peanuts. Now anyone that is a regular reader will instantly know that I am one of the very few people on this earth that abhorrently detests the mixture of peanuts and sugar so very much, they make me physically sick! I mean, I go directly to the bathroom and regurgitate everything. I love peanuts, as nuts. I love chocolate. The two together are an abomination created by the devil! I ensure Hester does not put any of this ‘Witches brew’ into my bowl, and then distract her by asking what is on the other rotunda. She comes in close and whispers to me that that is foreign food. Ahha! So that must make me a Chinese Leprechaun then I reply. Exactly she says! And heads back to our table. I am now aware this would all make so much more sense if I had forsaken the second coffee, great though it was; and gone straight on to very strong Long Island Iced Teas.

 

Having already sussed this gig, I head for the chef with lovely big and white, European Chefs’ hat, and ask him in Cantonese he understands; for 2-eggs. We then have to do the ‘Over-easy’ or ‘Sunny-side-up’ stuff. Opps! I don’t know this, but happenstance what I want is on a nearby plate, so I just point … and they come to pass, and are excellent. I head back to the vaguely western rotunda, and add bacon in congealed molasses and sweet sausages + a paving slab of ‘Chinese French Bread’ to my platter. I toss in a couple of sachets of real Anchor butter – which seems a tad bizarre reference what I intend to use it with. Ho-Hum! I admit to considering the spam tinned slices with matching packaged cheese slices on top, for the briefest moments. It can happen to any of us…

 

Back at the table, and Hester immediately sets about me; and why I did not answer the door last night. I thought we already done this?

Take: 2:

H: Why did you not answer the door last night 15 minutes after we departed? (Yes, it was actually 20 minutes above, but Hester is warming to the topic).

J: I went for a beer.

H: Why didn’t you tell me?

J: We had just said ‘Goodnight’, as you were very tired and needed to go to sleep immediately.

H: That’s unimportant. Last night was very important, as the ‘Boss’ came to my room and we did talking. You should have been there!

J: Why didn’t you call me on my mobile?

H: No, you were supposed to be in your room.

J: So why didn’t you call me.

H: You really don’t understand how important this is do you?

J: Ok, let’s meet him now; give him a call for breakfast.

 

Hester then blusters a lot, and doesn’t ring his number. She tells me he is late. Anyway; we must go now as we have an appointment with the Boss in his office. I ask her if this is the same Boss we should have met for breakfast, and she concurs.  This is then decided, so Hester asks for the bill, and then informs the waitress it is ‘on the house’. The girl is fine about it all, and Hester pays only for my coffee.

 

Upon reaching the lift, the doors open and we are greeted by ‘The Owner’ who is just arriving for breakfast – and you guessed it; we are his honoured guests for another meal – my third of the day so far (And it is not even 9am yet). He is accompanied by his ‘Business Colleagues’: two “Gorilla’s” and a man in pukka suit with an attaché case.

 

We are seated at the reserved table, which is the one Hester really liked but was not allowed to sit at. The boss is a very big fish in a very small pond. One of the gorillas is quite chatty and knows a little English. The other is not a morning person either I guess. The guy with the briefcase speaks only in reply when being directly addressed. We chat about all and nothing, and thank him for letting us stay in his lovely hotel for free. He is magnanimous by return, although I get an inkling this is a favour returned for Hester. The boss orders more coffee for me, and another English breakfast. The clock moves on to about 9.30 before he covers the bill and we depart. Our meeting is now scheduled for 11am, so Hester returns to the room and has a shower. I catch the end of Jackie Chan and wait.

 

An hour later Hester reappears at my door, and is insistent we hurry as we are late. We go to the foyer and queue to hand back our room keys and pay any extra charges. This is a very slow process. Hester decides to use the toilets just before the immediate queue clears, and I am left on my own to hand back both sets of room keys to a girl who doesn’t speak any English. We basically get nowhere, and I wonder what is taking Hester so long. She reappears some 20 minutes later with a sticky cake, and apparently decided to go shopping. She is concerned that I was unable to finish sorting out our accommodation; until she is informed she also has to be physically in reception to check out. We then sit in reception while Hester finishes her cake, and then we wait a little longer. It is now just passed 11am, and I think to enquire about the appointment with the boss. Just then Hester’s mobile rings and it is time to depart. I ask where we are headed and Hester says the main street, so I head off down the short corridor to my right and the side door. Hester calls me back and insists we exit the main door, which is ok. We then turn left, and left again at the corner, and pass the exit I was intending to use. We go into the next shop which sells water machines. We are greeted by many staff and bosses, none of which I have met before. Being shown into the rear office, we are immediately supplied with an endless supply of Chinese Tea and chain-smoked cigarettes. I have absolutely no idea why we are here, or what happened concerning the other appointment, but never mind.

 

Later we renter the shop part, as the boss has a little business to attend to. I admire the water machines whilst staff practise their English on me. One is insistent I try out their blood checking machine, and guess what? Well it appears my blood has small flaws and is the wrong colour. It is in need of their treatment (At Y200 per go). I say “No thank you”, and am left alone. At 12.30 the shop owner comes back, signalling time we depart for lunch. Hester apologises for lunch being late, as she is ravenous and is used to eating at midday prompt. She is concerned I am offended. I reassure her I am not as we walk down the street to the other end of the hotel, and up a flight of stairs to the hotel staff canteen. We are soon ensconced in a private room, and many dishes are ordered for our sustenance. Hester proceeds to demolish all the vegetarian ones, whilst I pick at some dishes and honour copious toasts of beer and rice wine. The food is pretty good actually, although there is nothing remarkable about it worth relating to you here. Conversation flows, and I am seated between 2 beautiful girls who speak good English and like chatting.

 

The meal is over within an hour, and the shop staff head back to work. Hester decides to go back to her room for a shower. We use the staff service lift that is adjacent to the restaurant, and arriving at the floor, Hester asks the housemaid to let her in – we had already checked out you will remember. I hang around near the lifts and smoke a couple of cigarettes. Hester comes out and knocks on my door. I call her from the far end of the corridor, and she is amazed I did not have another shower. I let this pass, as we are now rushing to meet the boss. We go down the service elevator, turn right and right again, and arrive back in the hotel reception. Yes, I know exactly what you readers are thinking – why not use the other lifts for patrons that go directly to reception. After a brief word with the receptionist, Hester then gets into the lift, which shortly stops on the floor we occupied. We then walk past our vacated rooms to the service elevator we used a minute before, and go to the top floor. I did ask why we did not use the customer lift, to which Hester replies that this was the one we were told to use. Here is China!

 

We arrive at the boss’s large and luxuriant office, but he keeps us waiting whilst he finishes some important business. I later determine he has a computer game on pause. Ho-Hum! He has a short business conversation with Hester, before calling for an interpreter so we can converse. He offers many cups of Chinese tea, this one being the corn version I find slightly unpalatable. It appears he is interested to know just how much money I plan on investing into his latest project, as he is building a new commercial district with associated housing and infrastructure. Well, that’s a new one on me, as I though this meeting was for Hester only. I don’t miss a beat and reply that first I would like to see the plans and figures. He smiles and leads us to a new room with a large scale model of the project. It is quite impressive, but nothing remotely connected with my business. Unfortunately, it appears the financials are only available in Chinese, but he will have them translated and sent to me. I say Chinese is fine for me, but he insists that I have ones available in my own language. He must think I have “Sucker” stamped on my forehead! We remain convivial, especially as he did not charge us for last night’s stay, and also paid for my third breakfast this morning.  Then in typical Chinese fashion, the meeting is suddenly over and we are rushing to the street because we are late.

 

I am beginning to think that Hester always thinks she is late. I have no idea what we are late for, until we arrive at the town bus station. During this day I have had several conversations with Cindy, who I was originally planning to meet for late night drinks last night. We have by now agreed that I will not be arriving today, and will meet her at the Canton Fair in a month’s time. Hester buys tickets for Shenzhen and goes to wait for the coach. I linger outside and top-up with nicotine. A few hours later we arrive in Lo Wu coach station, and immediately rush into the underpass – a subterranean world that links this transportation hub together, and very well designed it is too. Having just left the main inter-city coach station (Where I have a direct bus to Foshan), we instead go quite a distance underground, and then sort of slip through a side exit. This in turn leads to a small bus station, where Hester buys two tickets for Long Jiang. Ahha! That’s where we are going; and yes, my presence is very much required as she needs my advice about something very important!

 

The trip is uneventful, as Hester is tired and falls asleep instantly. It is late afternoon and the Shenzhen rush hour is already underway. We get stuck in a series of traffic jams before finally getting to the highway. Whilst this city does have an excellent transport hub at Lo Wu, the main arteries are not well planned, complicated by the fact that there is only one road allowed for use into Mainland China proper. This is because migrant workers and similar require a special permit to enter the city. I think Guangdong residents, and those holding international credentials are excepted.

 

I shake Hester awake as we approach Longjiang, a town I know very well. We get off the coach adjacent to the government building on the main road, and are greeted by ‘Naughty Boy’, who I know very well. He is the one that had the hots for my assistant Kenny when we went to Northern Guangdong some months back (Missive: What a Week That Was! refers). He hasn’t changed at all, and his warm smile is very welcome. I then look down and discover the small black suitcase I removed from the coach, does not in fact belong to me. It was very dark in the bus shadow, and it appeared to be mine under the prevailing conditions, and was exactly where I left my own a little earlier. We crash into the car and soon catch up with the bus. However, it has no intention of stopping; at least until the driver and naughty boy have had a long conversation. Eventually it pulls over some 5-miles down the road, and I retrieve my own suitcase, which I find is now on the other side of the coach, but we can only use this side due to heavy traffic. Having secured my possession, I am then greeted by the owner of the case I had taken by mistake, and after checking her own and loading it back on the bus, she then inspects mine just to be sure. In my defence, I will add that they are virtually identical, even down to being made by the same manufacturer. I am both amazed and relieved I spotted my error in time.

 

We then return back to one block short of where the coach dropped us off, and it appears naughty boy is now the proud owner of a retail shop that sells water machines. This is the day of grand opening and we are honoured guests. I am sure Hester has been up to mischief here, and make a mental note for future reference. It later transpires that this is one of Hester’s shops, and mainly funded by some equivalent of franchise by naughty boy. She asks me what I think of the shop and its products, which are made by the boss of the hotel we met in Huizhou. I say they are fine, but the location is wrong, and the goods may not sell as well as she thinks. I am then ignored for an hour whilst they get busy doing Chinese things.

 

They decide to close at 7pm, and I am invited to share dinner with them. I am still totally stuffed from the three breakfasts and lunch, so politely decline. They are very disappointed, but I maintain I have very pressing business early next morning and need to prepare tonight. They accept this ruse, and I finally manage to make my escape. Yippie!

 

They drop me at a nearby bus stop where I can catch the bus to Foshan, but after fond farewells and ‘we must do this again soon’, I decide a taxi is actually what I need. There are a couple parked nearby and I enquire the fixed charge rate (Normally Y70 to Foshan, and Y80 or upwards the other way). The young driver haggles a bit, but my Cantonese must be quite good, so he decides to offer me Y50, and even gives me his private number for future reference. He also knows exactly which block my home is one in Foshan, and the transfer is a breeze! I should inform you I used him many times thereafter, and he remembered immediately. Excellent!

 

That just about wraps up what I originally thought was a day trip to Shenzhen. I know regular readers such as Neil and Caroline will immediately understand this as being how China happens to you. I should perhaps also justify things by reminding you that Hester is in fact a Hong Kong person, and a mature woman with unbreakable will. I still respect her to this day, but whilst this adventure may have been bizarre at times, it also taught me a lot about people and life. Hester and I never did actually make any business together, although we met many times over the coming couple of years.

 

One final thought: I have rewritten this from memory, and all it took to unlock these days was the return of Day 1 by my dearest friend Dawn. Thank you. It is now 4-years later, and I am still here in Canton, and still enjoying and marvelling at this fascinating Country. I especially wanted to restore this missive, as it explains a lot about China and Chinese peoples that would ordinarily go un-noticed, and come as a surprise to most Westerners when faced with similar situations.

 

Here is China!