Gao Gong

Bandit Country

 

Gaogong

Gao Gong is the Cantonese name for Jiu Jiang, and it is part of Nomhoi (Nan Hai) District, which is in turn a part of Foshan City Regional Department = a small county in UK. The town is very spread out, and whilst at the extremes is no more than 2-miles wide; it follows the river for about 20-miles in our location. The Northern quadrant is quite distant and mainly industry with associated housing. However, the light railway is being built here, which will provide easy access to Foshan, Guangzhou, and even Hong Kong. I can’t wait!

 

The part of town connecting with our ferry is a little ways off the beaten track, although actually quite central. It is home to the major government buildings and Police stations (Cops, Traffic, etc). It has a very nice promenade of over 1-mile in length, complete with ornate and regularly tended flower beds, whilst the entire vista is nicely tiled in complementary colours. There are a string of restaurants and some recent and exclusive Gardens (Condominiums) associated, plus the town square to the Southeasterly end, which overlooks the river.

 

Looking East we find the main G325 road and FoKai Expressway. These run jointly past a Buddhist hill which is home to a grand Pagoda lit at night. Riverside is the first island ‘Hoi Siu Doh’, and beyond the second ‘Hoi Shao Doh’ which is our home. A long way in the distance is the far side of the river, and a city called Hoksan (He Shan). Turning Northwest we find another District capital city called Goming (Gao Ming), which is a different District of Foshan City Regional Department. However, most of the people here consider they are really Shunde People, which is the largest Foshan City Regional Department on this side of the river and is little over 1-mile away from the ferry.

 

Nomhoi city is actually situated to the East of Foshan, and part of the same conurbation to the extent that you don’t really know you are in a different place. The real centre is called ‘Guicheung’, and extends both East and North of Foshan city proper. We are located in a sliver of historically associated land that encompasses both Foshan and Shunde, and it is a couple of miles wide for about 30 miles, but fronts the mighty Pearl River. The point is that more than 2, 000 years ago, Nomhoi was a vassal state for the emerging Han Chinese Empire. The boundary was this river, and the other side was referred to as ‘The Badlands’, or Bandit Country. Now, I wonder about my island home – am I still in old China, or in Bandit Country? Of course, even then this was a part of the Yue Empire. But enough of other peoples history, as I have a feeling you would rather read about my own in the making?

 

Returning to Gaogong then, we will find the real town to the East. It is not a particularly pretty place, but very functional. The only ATM that recognizes a foreign Visa or MasterCard is located a long ways off at the far reaches of the town. If this machine runs out of money, then it very kindly lets you go through the entire withdrawal process before giving the message “Abnormal account transaction – please refer to your bank’. I would much rather they simply stated on card insertion that the machine had no money to give out. Here is China! However, when this machine does have money in it (Midday), then it works far better than most I have had the displeasure to use; and it has an English language option. Cool!

 

The towns transport hub, and probably its reason for being, is that it is located at the junction of the G325 Highway, which runs from Shantao (The windy city) all the way to Hinan Island (China’s beach paradise). It is a very busy road. This crosses the equally congested FoKai Expressway, and government has kindly added a traffic roundabout just to make matters worse. The Expressway does follow the overpass, but it is a major road intersection for travelers, and a coach stop for all. I had the misfortune to wait for a lift once at this roundabout, and was immediately beset by horde of motorbike taxis - as if a plague of mosquitoes had landed. Unfortunately most were itinerant workers who only spoke Mandarin, or presumed I was speaking Mandarin. Well, been there, done that, have the Tee-shirt, so what’s new? Well … apparently … the hotel on this roundabout is very good for girls to give you a massage, and for another Y100, they will offer ‘Extra Service’. Oh sorry, it seems they are not very good at proper massage, but they are very cheap for ‘Extra Service’. Basically that’s a tenner a go then. Oh My Life! I seriously do not need this useless knowledge, but you may find it amusing.

 

Moving on we find the town has a 24/7 MacDonald’s situated quite close to the ferry terminal. Well that’s a first then! Mind you, it could be very handy if I am out all night and in need of somewhere that sells food or a version of coffee at 4am, whilst I await the first daily ferry back to the island at 5.30am. The centre of town near the Bank also has an ‘MFC’. This is notably like a KFC, except it is a Chinese copy. I am beguiled to try it sometime, despite everyone and everyone telling me it is no good. It think it looks pretty ok, and they can’t do it any worse can they? I’ll have to tell you about this one later. The Maccies I have been in, for a coffee to kill time. My friend’s chips were ok, and the rest was as you would expect for a Chinese sweet palate. Our island restaurant will have a veritably good fast food section, and I wonder about the name ‘MacTuckies’. Well if you can’t beat ‘em…

 

Gaogong centre is also home to several undistinguished supermarkets, a symphony of China telecom shops, and various clothes shops. There are actually some very good deals hereabouts, but we were headed for ‘Hair Washy and massage’. Well, a bit of a trek, but we found three clumped together for safety. Choosing the nearest and recommended by someone, we enter to find the staff are all wearing head communicators, and soon enjoy a very professional hair wash. The massage isn’t very good, and despite the girl trying quite hard, she either tickles my muscles or hurts them. She is not local and only speaks Mandarin = A lot to learn then in this part of great China. We have since tried several other establishments, but none have got everything right yet. I also espied a couple of places that look just right for ‘Foot massage’, which I will relate next time.

 

The centre also contains the towns 2, and only two Dry Cleaners. Siu Ying says the town is ‘Very cheap’, inferring that people cannot afford to have items cleansed this way, and she has a good point. We discovered these after being dropped off one day near MacDonald’s, and taking the long and circuitous route (Local directions) accompanied by a heavyweight of winter bedding for cleaning, we walked several miles in order to find one that was actually open for business. Siu Ying was amazed there was another opposite. I was not, as all things in China are invariably grouped together. It is their culture.

 

The entire main street of a couple of miles in length straddles a rather inauspicious canal that contains something of dark green colouration and has a rather unpleasant smell to it. It has either road or foot bridges provided every Li, a traditional Chinese measurement for length that is similar in distance to half a kilometer. This is flanked upon either side by a dual carriageway and pavement in parts. The canal is also protected by an ornate marble embankment, so you may wonder why something that appears so lovely is in fact low on my tourist sights. The answer lies in the fact that the entire length on both sides is being renovated. This means employing the use of very large earthmovers  and associated machinery, which occupy most of the available roadways. During the course of repairing the canal banks, a lot of the green murky liquid is also deposited on the roads turning them into a mudbath in many places. An additional pleasure is that fact that many traders have stands occupying the entire pavement width, or customers have parked their scooters there. This means you invariably spend most of your time walking in the road and dodging other roads users and pedestrians. The main works are right in the town centre, where a road bridge is being doubled in width. This is also the space occupied by the intercity coaches which travel to Guangzhou and the roadside thereabouts acts as their bus station. Sometimes to add spice to proceedings, they kindly fence of the entire road so that cars cannot progress. Of course there are no warning signs, so it is quite common to witness cars trying to reverse and find another route to their destination. Motorcycles can usually get through by using the small gaps left for pedestrians. In general, these gaps or corridors are large enough for one person carrying bags of shopping, or a motorcycle. It is very common for both to meet. The only Bank I can use is right in the middle of all this chaos, so perhaps now you may understand why this is not my most favourite of destinations. However, I am sure it will be lovely once works have completed.

 

Mona Lisa

It was her Birthday, so Siu Ying and I did some ‘Girls shopping’, and I was able to smile all the way through this torture. Well, the way I see it – if I need a top or pair of jeans, I just go to the shop and buy it. Girls = no. They do not need to buy anything to wear, yet they go to 50 shops to try on things they are not going to buy. Why? I am obviously missing something somewhere. Siu Ying is actually pretty good about this aspect of male disinterest, and having given her an hour of this process, she asks me if it is time to eat. For sure, I could use a beer or three right now. I have a cunning plan…

 

I take her to ‘Mona Lisa’, which is the only decent looking restaurant in town that I have so far spotted. She asks me how I knew – and I explain that I passed by once and knew it was a good eatery. She is still not convinced, and later is a bit mollified, as the place turns out to be very good actually.

 

The restaurant is a very good choice actually, and is a three part establishment, with the front facing the road open for Westerners. Most of the tables have pc and internet, and the menu is from a glance, as you would expect = steaks, chips, burgers etc. Set aside from this is a very romantic area solely for ‘Wine Tasting’. Oh my god! From experience, Chinese wine is invariably: red, very sweet, and has no accountable body to it. As an extra bonus, it will also say ‘Cabernet Sauvignon’ in English on the label. Hahaha! I prefer Tuscan wines, so not interested in these copies whatsoever. Siu Ying is intrigued, but it needs a party atmosphere to enjoy properly, not just the two of us you understand. However, this sets her mood, which is now excellent.

 

Being first directed to the Western tables, presumably because I am a foreigner, we then go deeper inside and discover a Japanese quarter, complete with sunken tables and hostess in a pretty mundane Japanese copy Jump-suit. Moving-on, we encounter the real restaurant proper, which fortunately specialises in ‘Hot=Pot’. It is all quite classy, and as I had hoped for. This has a version of buffet, where you go and choose from a wide selection of prepared cuisine, and cook at your table. I was expecting a large bill, but it actually came in at £ 7 quid for two; including beers. Done deal and we will certainly try this again = A bit if a cracker really.

 

However, my personal favourite eatery is the street restaurant atop of the ferry embarkation point. I mentioned this in passing whilst writing ‘Island Ahoy’, but this is a fuller description that does not overlap. There are neither airs nor graces here, and the staff stop by to chat and have a laugh. The place is actually rammed from about 6am through until after 10am. This is for ‘Morning Tea’, a Chinese description for drinking and eating. China does not appear to have any licencing hours associated with the sale of alcohol, so these are often very jolly and festive occasions. However, we first started using this restaurant shortly after moving here, primarily because Siu Ying had a couple of bad teeth and needed soft food. They make a rather delicious Sik Juk (Congee or rice porridge), which was ideal for her at that time. I also liked the place and used to drop by for a beer or three whilst killing time waiting for the ferry to arrive. But nothing is ever that simple in China!

 

My favourite beer is called Long Bei, and brewed locally in Long gong (Long Jiang). This is kept in an upright chiller, which is padlocked most of the time. It is only unlocked when one of the four owners is present, which tends to be at peak times only. However the second fridge has a good supply of Tsingtao, so all is not lost.

 

I now know the staff pretty well, and the first one I got to know was the woman who washes the dishes. She is called Ah-Yee, smokes roll-ups and keeps offering me a try. I have refused so far, but may give one a try one day? She is very friendly and understands my Cantonese readily. Being an older person than most of the other staff, she appears quite worldly wise and presumably a good judge of character. It was she that helped me order food on the first occasion I tried, a fried dim sum called ‘Gao Gee’ – see I have remembered this one now. My next new friend was Chirpy Charlie the City Chef and it was he that helped me with the carbuoys of water you may recall. I used to enjoy passing the time of day with him, but unfortunately he has since got married and presumably has left? The other person of note is Wendy the Waitress. She is a cracking girl and one I would love to know a lot better – if I wasn’t already married that is! She likes a laugh and we can communicate quite well in spatterings of Cantonese. So: the beer is good, the food is delicious, and the staff good company. What else can I tell you about? Well, no description of mine would be complete without a trip to the toilets!

 

The toilets are inside to the rear of the restaurant, and look exceedingly modern and well presented. They are very clean and have three cubicles plus a modern sink. Accepted they are for use by either sex, and I don’t notice this in China anymore. Given that they appear to be so excellent, you must be wondering what I could possibly find to write about? Well, they are Chinese traps of course = holes in the floor, but the ceramics are modern and good quality. However, the interesting bit begins when you have finished your business and reach for the flush control. I first tried trap 2, and this proceeded to leak flushing water all over the floor. The ensuing jet of water just missed my shoe, but it was of no real significance. For the first couple of weeks, Trap 1 had only a very minor leak which was inconsequential, so pardon my surprise when using this one day I found it had turned into a sprinkler system. I think our Arab friends would find this exactly to their liking, but for me it was a bit too wet. Meanwhile Trap 3 has remained in good working order with no leaks. However, this one is actually missing the plunger knobs on top of the cistern, thus making it more difficult to flush.

 

Don’t go away, because I haven’t reached the sink yet! The plush pedestal type washbasin stands to one corner complete with free liquid soap. As common with all public facilities, the tap is not fixed to the basin, so moves when you try to use it. One day this had broken, and so a hosepipe was connected to a cleaners tap nearby, and routed around circuitously to end its journey conveniently positioned behind the broken sink tap and pointing in the right direction. It worked very well, but it took 10-days for repairs to be made. In the meantime the hosepipe became coiled like a serpent around the cleaners tap head, and a lot more difficult to use. The tap has since been replaced, and miraculously, it is also secured to the basin – which must be a first in China. Let us leave the restaurant for the time being, and look at town transportation.

 

Motorcycled taxi charges

There are no taxis here of the car variety, so all services are provided by motorcycles. I have no problem with this and quite enjoy them. My bone of contention is that they invent charges to suit and do so especially with me. I had similar when I first arrived in China so many years ago. Eventually the regulars work out you are now a local person and stop being so stupid about it all, but we are in the interim, so anything goes – or so they like to think. They obviously think that because I am a foreigner they can charge me whatever they feel like. Now I have no problem with paying them slightly more because I can afford it. I resent being ripped-off, and this is what a lot of these hero’s try-on. The migrant workers are particularly bad for this, so much so that now - if they do not speak Cantonese, then I do not bother with them. The local guys are usually quite fair about charges, and as we get to know them, so their fares have normalized. One of my frequent taxis is a guy who lives on the island. He has an uncanny knack of turning up wherever we are, and whenever we need a taxi. He appears to finish work at 8.30 and catches the ferry back, offering us a free ride also. After several of these, Siu Ying finally managed to stick some money in his pocket – but it was very hard work.

 

I guess my first dilemma is to try and work out if a boat or motorcycle should be our first purchase. It is a tricky decision. A boat will free us from the constrictions of the ferry and allow us nightlife. However, we will soon operate our own water taxi, so would this be money wasted? Contrarily, a scooter is probably my best option, as this can easily carry carbuoys of water and lots of shopping. However, this means we would have to use the main ferry. During idle moments I have been wondering about designs for a new type of boat that basically holds one or two people. It would be like a roll-on roll-off Jet Ski, and powered by the motorcycle or scooter. I haven’t quite sussed this design yet, without becoming bogged down in a lot of technicals. But for sure it can be done. But how to do it in simple fashion??? Well I guess if it was that simple, then somebody would have already invented it hehe!

 

Lets leave transportation issues behind, and visit the local market.

 

See Churng

What is in English known as a ‘Wet Market’ is called a See Churng by Cantonese speakers. It is a thronging hub of traders and activity; and the one in central Gaogong is no exception. Here you can buy virtually anything, although the main stallholders offer fruit, vegetables, plus live meats and fish, with some dried or salted produce.

 

The Market itself comprises of two roofed sheds which occupy over an acre each. In between and surrounding are other traders who either have shops or produce on display out in the open. The first and innermost stalls have meat products like any butchers shop. Next and completing the first shed are fishmongers. This includes all many or shellfish + toads, snakes, and everything imaginable. The second shed begins with half a dozen stalls selling mainly chicken, but also ducks, swans, and geese. Whilst the meat is cut from larger cuts, both the fish and chickens are live. The traders will gut and scale the fish for you upon request or slaughter and prepare the chickens according to your individual requirements. However, most are sold living.

 

The rest of this curiosity is given over to fruit and vegetables. Several of the Islanders have stalls here, which mainly sell vegetables or fish. They greet us warmly, but tell us to buy from them on the island, as they keep the best stuff at home. From other traders we buy what is not readily available: potatoes, garlic, ginger, and on one occasion Siu Ying bought a couple of pounds of prawns and nine small crabs – which the local restaurant cooked for us at a cost of Y5 = 50 pence or about 80 cents.

 

Lean-to’s and permanent structures surrounding this market tend to offer for sale support goods, such as: brushes, stools, and everyday household items. The only things I cannot find hereabouts are Oysters, but maybe next time…

 

 

My intention is to expand this missive over time to include other highlights and misfortunes as they beset us. I will also include local characters who become worthy of note, but for now I will make this a short discourse and turn my attention to pressing business matters. Thank you for reading

 

Jonno