Island Life 2 - Carry on up the Restaurant
73, The Island,
This missive is basically a continuation of Island Life, and can be read independently. It is merely a collection of events and observations that provide unrelated snapshots of daily life on the island
Carry on up the
restaurant
As part of our island marina development we are in the process of buying one of the existing island restaurants. This is at the far end of the island, but has a great aspect and deep water. Our main development is currently proceeding through government and has been very well received. However, we are now awaiting reports concerning possible damage to the river banks, impact of activities on the surrounding area, and disruption to shipping. None of these should be a problem, but we still have to commission the reports and produce the findings. In the meantime, we can build a floating jetty as long as it does not extend “Too far” into the river. “Too far” remains undefined, so we have to use our initiative regarding it’s exact parameters.
Over the past few months we have regularly entertained
potential investors at the floating boat restaurant, as this has a most
agreeable atmosphere. However, it would aid our cause tremendously if we
actually had something to show people. With this in mind we have agreed a deal
with Au (Ou) San, owner of the farthest restaurant – which will in fact be very
close to our
The day in question started ashore where we met with So San, a very important businessman who is interested in our project. His Mother lives on the island and he knows government very well. His help will be of great assistance to us. We had finally tracked down where a local boat builder was actually located, so after morning tea we set off up the coast. 2 miles later we reached the boatyard and had a very worthwhile meeting with staff and owner. They are currently building a dozen fast boats for local maritime police use and build quality is excellent. They have offered us full support and will build any type of fiberglass based boat we want. We also discussed marina’s, as they to want to build one also, but do not know how to get it going. This is our area of expertise of course. However, it turns out the other senior partner is heavily into Jet Ski’s and water skiing, so possibilities for future collaboration immediately appear.
Having made first contact, we depart for lunch at Au San’s restaurant, where we present our plans to So San, pointing out what we will do and where. He is very pleased with our proposals and keen to help us take this forward, offering useful advice and insights as we talk. One of our party is a keen angler, so he goes to the waterfront and tries his hand at fishing. This is unsuccessful as the wind is getting up and the water is rather choppy. Almost as soon as we are seated a slight rain begins to fall, and the gusting wind renders table cloths a frivolous hazard - as the waste water receptacle is tossed aside by wind, thus drenching the centre of the table with hot water. So we sit at the bare wooden table and order lunch. I get along very well with a friend of So San’s who also smokes and likes a drink. His English is excellent and we soon discover we share a lot in common. Several dishes are served and as the rice is being distributed the cook rushes out of the kitchen to stop a sign being blown away. The wind is really getting up now. Au San takes the sign from the cook, who rushes back to his stove and frantically begins stirring things to avoid burning. Meanwhile as Au San puts the sign safely away, the cat has spied the fish he was gutting and takes an interest. Mrs Au San then stops serving rice and rushes over to shoo the cat away. As there are only the three of them I decide to get the next beer myself, and en route top up everyone’s glass of tea and refill the pot – something So San finds rather unusual for any foreigner to even think of doing. Smartie points for me then!
Having delivered the fish to the cook, Au San rushes over to one of the awnings and standing on a chair, starts pushing the wire holding the awning pole back into place. As is typical of all island restaurants, this one is largely constructed of bamboo and wire is used to hold the joints together, so no nails are required. It seems the buffeting wind has loosened this one fastening, but it is soon repaired. A dog ambles past on the look out for scraps.
Perhaps I should explain that this restaurant, like all others bar one, lies outside of the protective dyke where no permanent building is allowed. The toilet block and associated septic tank are excepted from this rule, as is the concrete floor pan. However, the buildings are all of a temporary nature, so the storeroom is made entirely from bamboo with bark walls and roof. It is a common design and pleasing to the eye. The restaurant proper actually has a metal frame with tin sheet roof, which is unusual. However, the awnings and extensions are all of bamboo construction. The washing and prep area are outside and open to the elements. This is not a problem as it is usually sunny in this part of the world.
Returning to our meal we find the wind has grown even stronger, although it is still lovely and warm. A gust gets up underneath the nearest awning and after tenting up, the whole thing soon crashes to the ground. We carry on regardless, and it is at this point I am reminded of the hilarious sketch from Carry on up the Khyber – the dinner scene. And here it is in real life! I thought only the British could carry on totally nonplused as the world crashes around them, but I am wrong – the Chinese can do this amiably well also. We are well matched in this respect, and whilst the staff rushes to catch the billowing awning and put it back in place, talk at table moves on to the disused and unfinished villas near the ferry. In a nearby corner one of the dogs is enthusiastically playing with a small crab which presumably has escaped containment, whilst the cat looks on disdainfully. The wind must have also damaged the chicken coop, as soon afterwards three chick’s race past us pursued by a small puppy. I get another beer myself as the staff appear somewhat distracted at present. Returning to table, I suggest the awnings if inverted would make for very good sails, something Uncle agrees with - as the middle awning is now governed by wind power and trying to head off for a new home. We decide to turn off the overhead fan and save power, as it isn’t really effective under the current conditions, and has been swaying precariously for a few minutes now.
As the meal completes, so the wind dies, the clouds pass and
sunshine reappears. Half the guests depart to catch the immanent ferry, whilst
we remain and chew the cud a bit longer. So San suggest we visit the villas on
the way back, so a new plan is formed. Being one vehicle less, five of us pile
into So San’s car, whilst Yuan is given a lift by Au San on his motorcycle. We
stop at the government building and I decide to tag along with So San and his
friend. Entering we find Au San the
So San is immediately received and welcomed by Big Boss Au San, and they chat for a while in Chinese style. I follow much of what is said, and know when talk turns to the business of the day. We leave shortly after and go to the villas, passing Yuan on the way, who is by then only a few hundred yards short of our destination. Big Boss Au San arrives a short time later accompanied by a dog and we look at the locked entry. Then a guy rocks up on a scooter and reaching up to atop of one wall, produces the key. We all shake our heads and say ‘Of course’ in several languages.
I have been told these villas were build by a
Immediately in front of us and over a pool stands a central structure of some height, complete with sturdy ironwork construction. It would make an ideal community centre, shop, or restaurant. There is a kitchen area and separate large toilets for men and women. However, there are only bare walls and no roof yet, but the skeleton frame and brickwork are complete. Uncle says we should demolish it and build a three-storey structure in its place. I quite like it, as it looks out over a grassed area and commercial fish pond beyond. This has no fish in it and was obviously designed as a small boating lake. It is about 200 yards wide by 500 yards long, and the latter fronts a path with 9 villas in various stages of completion. The first two exhibit signs of occupation, given the unmade beds and a computer with internet connection. However, the design is quite bizarre for such small dwellings, consisting of a large bedroom and bathroom with double whirlpool bath. Both rooms exit to a decent sized patio which overlooks a small fish pond complete with fish. But that’s it! There is no living area or kitchen, and no place to put one of either. However, each chalet does have a sunken boat tethered to the disappearing bank of the large pond mentioned earlier. I still don’t quite know just what to make of these buildings, as the large bathroom is too small to make into a double bedroom. Combining two chalets to make one large one is an easy option, except there are only 9 of them on this stretch. This would also make them a little too large. The space between these villas is ideal for a bedroom or living room, so this may be an option, but then the doors would have to be moved. I really don’t know? I am sure it will come to me given time.
Outside again, and these nine villas extend down the long side of the boating pond. At its end are another six chalet shells without roof or anything else. These tag another six to form two sides of a quadrangle overlooking another fish pond, this time with an ornately finished swimming pool in the centre. I immediately picture a bar set in the pool, as designed in glossy magazines depicting plush hotels. However, this is not a swimming pool; it is a fish pond complete with mud floor and walls, no water treatment facility, and mosquito heaven. The guy who let us in must be the caretaker, for from one of the adjacent chalets he produces a bag of fish food, and using a scoop; proceeds to throw a lot of it into the pool. This immediately erupts into a frenzy of activity, and some of the fish are very large, large enough for you to worry about them chewing your toes! I am then pointed to observe the fence, which shows me we are actually viewing one quarter of the available development. Everybody present (Excepting my wife), looks at me expectantly for inspiration. Whilst I admit there is great potential, I am also quite baffled by the whole design. I also note from this perspective that bank erosion has in places undermined the main path to the point where half the concrete is unsupported. This means major works and probable drainage of the main boat pond in order to put right.
To recap: we have a large central building that is essentially complete – given a roof + fixtures, fittings and furniture. We have 20 chalets that are too small to be viable VIP guest quarters, yet would make good family accommodation for a one-night stay. They are too small for daytime usage, unless they were occupied by groups using bunks instead of a bathroom. This is a different market, and more akin to Youth Hostels. Then of course one of our other schemes is to provide protected housing for people of pensionable age. I feel this area has tremendous potential for this kind of development, but the boating pond would have to go or be seriously revised.
One bonus is that during our inspection, the proposal to have an island taxi service was accepted by all. This is essential and something I had been angling to present in the proper way for some time. It seems So San mentioned it in passing, and it will be so. Job done! Au San departs on what I learn is a borrowed motorcycle, and the dog follows as his owner actually owns the motorcycle and is unrelated to the rider. The six of us pile into So San’s car and off we go. Pardon me if I continue to muse over uses for this development, whilst this missive continues along a different path – so let’s see how our home electricity supply conundrum is coming along instead…
Power Wars - Return
of the ‘leci!
Having agreed with Uncle that his boy should rewire our home, it came as a small surprise when Uncle called me one day to say he was on the ferry and would arrive in ten minutes. Ok. He appeared with Mr Exemplary Electrical Installation Guy and his mate Hot-Spot Henry. They immediately set to work measuring and marking places for plug sockets and light fittings. Unfortunately Uncle had also others in tow who were here to discuss boats and olive farms. After introductions and small chatter, I excused myself to attend to the Exemplary Electrical Installation Guy and his mate Hot-Spot Henry – as this is very important for me personally. I went through the whole house indicating what I needed and where. Siu Ying also helped initially, but soon was diverted to help Anne cook lunch for … I don’t know?
Having shown what was to go where electrically, they
departed to buy what was needed. I returned downstairs and left with our other
guests for lunch at Au San’s Restaurant. My good friend Dave from
Those of you who know me will know I do not always do logical things. I follow my emotions at times, and whilst I had this nagging desire to include Uncle for the evening meal, I also had a far stronger premonition not to do so. Therefore we find ourselves being driven to our dinner venue by Uncle, who I have not invited. We are ‘Brothers’ and I am sure he understand I have my reasons – although I cannot quantify them at this point in time. So Uncle drops of Dave, Siu Ying and I near to our destination in a nearby town, and I decide to go to the bank later. We find a seat at the correct eatery, after many phonecalls to Step (Stephanie, another very good friend I have known for ages). We are one hour early, so chill with a beer. At 5.50 Siu Ying decides to go for a ‘hair washy’ despite my attempts to dissuade her as our guests are due any minute. Dave and I already know Step will be late as she is currently with clients buying furniture a short but very difficult few miles away. This is worth a short aside:
This
town is called Long Jiang and it makes furniture. That is, it only makes
furniture and is
It took less than 9-months for the Chinese government to concur, and so they decided to build an underpass, under this intersection. Well, the resultant traffic chaos has been a nightmare, but the design and implementation has been totally brilliant! By which I mean that if you take a flyover with supporting stanchions beneath that straddle a major road, and then convert this road beneath to be an underpass with supporting intersection – then there is some seriously technical construction and planning behind it all.
Foshan Number 1 Ring Road has remained open all the time, despite the fact that the underpass of two lanes + emergency lane, in each direction; only just fits beneath and between the existing flyover stanchions. If you understand my description, then you also will marvel at this local wonder of modern construction, it is very impressive … but, and this is one of the things about China – wouldn’t it have been one hell of a lot easier to do this before the ring road was built?
In
And I digress as I am prone to do, so let’s return now to the dinner party in Long Jiang…
Long Jiang was my first home in
Dave and I glug a few beers and chill for a while. The sun is setting and as night descends so does Stephanie. Wow! That was quick! She heads an entourage of new people, so we order more beers whilst the girls set about ordering the food. I motion to introduce my wife – but she is still away at ‘Hair Washy’. Then I have to explain this in various forms of Chinese to the new arrivals – so I just say she is ‘Shopping’. This gives me great credit with the guys, as they understand all Chinese girls love shopping; and all Chinese boys hate shopping.
We move table and have the largest one in the restaurant, as our numbers have swelled dramatically. I had been hoping to have a good chat with Nancy, my friend and business partner, who has travelled all the way from Guangzhou with her partner and my good friend Norbert. Unfortunately the seating arrangements are not good for us, so we enjoy what we have and will leave business until tomorrow.
There are two new and important people at this table now,
and the third one being my wife is still on walk-about. One guy opposite me is
a factory boss, whilst the guy seated next to me is a very interesting
character who has lived in
However, table discussions range from infinity to is life pre-ordained, or can we change it. Dave and Norbert think they can change it. My Daoist friend says it is very difficult and only small changes if that – and I act as ‘Agent Provocateur’. People take me seriously. Opps! Then my other new friend and his mate set about the rice wine. Given that Dave and I have been on the beers now for several hours, this appears to be a Grand Idea. Siu Ying reappears around this time and I take great pleasure in introducing her to the other participants. I could possibly conclude that she is not overly happy with me, but decide that on this occasion, Valour is the better part of Discretion, so I carry on regardless. This rice wine is going down a treat!
I have absolutely no idea when things wound up, but I admit to being there and very conscious of what was happening. Dave, Norbert and Nancy shared a cab back, whilst we were several hours too late for the last ferry. Yuan drove me to the bank, so I managed to extract some funds before we headed to a hotel. It was ok, but I was a Pratt and only wanted the cheapest room at bottom price. Well, I was well wrecked and the floor was a tempting resting place if the truth be told. In my mind I had this priced at Y200, which is actually peanuts. It seems I did manage to get this reduced to Y130, but nobody actually bothered to tell me this in a form I understood – until the next day. So I go off for an excellent hotel massage, whilst my wife disappears to Steps for a gaff; and I presume Yuan was equally bemused. Ho-Hum! Excellent massage, and she was not an itinerant worker but a local girl who knew all about massage techniques and talked in real Chinese (Cantonese).
Anyways: the upshot was that I was actually in a very different
place from the place I thought I was in, and being turfed out at 2am left me
ample time to fix my bearings and find the road home. Along the way I met with
some jolly nice Policemen on a motorbike, who were initially concerned for my
safety. Strange in the West, but true in
Around 4.30 am I eventually stumble upon a petrol station, and my sense of direction proved ok – except I thought I was the other side of the hill, so companions: happenstance and lady luck are with me tonight then. This petrol station is exactly where I wanted to be at this hour, so I head for the intersection and ‘look-check-see’ (Lo po wah: Lok chek xi) if there is a bus headed in my direction.
Nope!
Within a cigarette a guy appears and offers me a ride for Y20, but he is not a regular motorcycle taxi, so I decline his offer. Near to the hour I am assaulted by many regular motorcycle taxis, giving some ridiculous prices for a trip to Gaogong. Now I may be drunk, stupid and vulnerable, but I am not that stupid, drunk, nor vulnerable either. They go away as no ‘fish’ for them here. Then another rocks up, and I beat his price down to Y15. He agrees, and I know I will pay him the full Y20 if it works out. I hop on the back, no crash-hat, and enjoy the buzz. Directions are now simple for me and in short haste we arrive outside the ferry terminal and my local mainland bar/restaurant thingymagig. I give the guy a Y20 note and he feigns no change – I say keep it = what it was worth anyway.
It is now almost 5.30, which means the first ferry to the island is in. I am a tad tempted, but the lure of another beer and something to eat grows stronger. Damn me, but I could murder a few ‘Gao GEE’ with sweet chillie sauce = fried dimsun pockets. I place my order and watch the ferry depart, time is on my side for a change, and enough time to go with this new moment I am sure. The morning restaurant staff awaken me to serve breakfast. Uh Ohh! The food is delicious as always, and I finish just in time to catch the next ferry home, and leaving most of my morning brew untouched – probably a wise coincidence
Damn but I get an unsolicited lift back once island side, and crash out on my settee … and then the rest of the world awakens. First up is the Exemplary Electrical Installation Guy and his mate Hot-Spot Henry. He actually wakes me up before setting about their task = great guy. Just to let me know they were there, then back to slumber for Johnny-Boy. He even asked me if I needed a drink (Water), dazzling!
And then the telephone starts ringing, a lot! I am a good man, but not quite at my best – so eventually seeing my predicament, the Exemplary Electrical Installation Guy and his mate Hot-Spot Henry take over shielding my calls by saying I am not here and will call back later. Well, for sure I am physically ‘here’, but mentally I am off in wonder world. That rice-wine is lethal stuff! I promise never to drink it again, ever – until next time hehe!
Around 11.30 Uncle Calls to suggest I take the workers to Au San’s restaurant for lunch. Good idea as I am seriously not up to cooking anything, and Siu Ying is somewhere else. I give Step a call and am informed she is there and still asleep. Great, that’s my husbandly duties attended to then. No doubt they will go off ‘Shopping’ later and maybe have a meal out before she returns. The guys god bless, say no to restaurant food, and return me to the sofa and find a Kung Fu movie for me to watch. They cook rice and eggs + whatever, and offer me some. I guess I had a short nap instead, as next thing I know Siu Ying arrives home, and the clock is saying 5-ish pm. I know instantly she is not happy with me – but the why still remains a mystery. She goes to bed and doesn’t talk at all to the Exemplary Electrical Installation Guy and his mate Hot-Spot Henry. Up to me then I guess?
I potter around and discover a new hole in the wall from our
toilet to outside, complete with integral wires. Interesting? The guys are now
on second and third floors, as indicated by occasional sounds of drills and
banging. I consider the outside cable, as it is not long enough to reach the
existing input and control box, so perhaps there is another plan? Just after
6pm the Exemplary Electrical Installation Guy appears from upstairs and
climbing his ladder outside, continues to play with the cable I had thought to
worry about, but didn’t. It is now dark outside, and he connects the wires to a
new feed by touch, and after 30 seconds we have new power, fed from a new box
upstairs. Wow! This guy is actually very good! He checks all power, showing me
everything works, and then departs post-hast to catch the 7pm ferry. The job is
not done, but everything left is either on the top floor, or on our
pre-existing main. I reckon there is about two hours work left, and seeing as
it didn’t happen the next morning, my best guess is that it will occur next
week-end, or sometime else… One thing I really do like is that he has fitted
the very latest plug sockets of very high quality. These have a standard
Chinese: 2-pin; 3-pin; and adapter socket as standard that will take
To wrap up this section maybe I should add that I had three heavy duty outlets installed for the later addition of a/c units. The ground floor does not need air-conditioning, so it is only the upstairs rooms. Siu Ying did not understand why we were fitting a/c in the top bedroom. It took me a while to explain to her that we were not actually installing the a/c units now as there is no need until next summer. We are only installing the power supply ready for a/c units in the future. It was Hot-Spot Henry who (Earlier) actually explained the difference to her. Sometimes things get a tad awkward to explain, especially technical things to girls who do not share a common language. I better quit before I get a mailbag of complaints from irate Western girls! So before you do, please know it is my entire fault for not knowing enough Cantonese to explain it properly to my wife in first instance. Phew! Think I covered that one nicely.
My apologies to any readers who are bored by the trivia of our home electrics, so lets find out what else is new in our household…
Be Loi
A couple of weeks prior to the above, I was with Siu Ying at Au San’s restaurant. It was late and after dinner, and we had been left behind to wait for Au San to take us home on his motorcycle. He wanted to do this immediately of course, but I was adamant he should finish his own dinner first. As previously and briefly related earlier, I spied a heap of puppies and their mother, and calling Siu Ying, she looked and immediately wanted one of them. She chose a young bitch, who was very forward for the pack, and was trying to bark a lot. This suited me fine also, so she asked the pup be kept for us. Au San said ok, but the pups were actually under the charge of Mrs Au San, so a few days later during another visit, Siu Ying checked with Mrs Au San – let’s call her Vera; and this pup was reserved for us. On the Saturday before the above occurred, Au San and his better half dropped by and delivered the pup – which was obviously a bit disorientated and missing its former home and creature comforts. We got along well together and it soon found a place to make a mess = our bedroom. Not good! Siu Ying discovered this mishap and had a long talk with it in both standard Cantonese and Toisanwah. I can see this pup is going to need to learn three languages then, those two + English! Whilst we could not replicate mother’s milk, Siu Ying did go out of her way to fix it meals of rice and fish. Hmmm? It is teething also, as evidenced by its liking for chewing on shoes and anything else it can sink its teeth into. It has taken a particular liking to chewing on my big toes, something I am not quite happy about as the teeth are very sharp!
The next day we entertain guests and it makes new friends. I think to call it Fido – well why not? However, it seems Siu Ying has already decided upon the name ‘Be Loi’. Ok. Be Loi it is then. This night the dog works out that making a mess inside is not a good idea, and it goes and uses the back garden instead, all of it’s own accord – something which quite amazes me. I had presumed we would be in for a long haul re toilet training, but over one week later and the house has never been affected since. Stunning!
I guess the poor mite has already been through it a bit, as after being dumped with us one evening, it then had just one day to get used to us before the electricians arrived. Then that night we were away overnight and it was left outside. The weather was warm, so I don’t think it was a big deal + she had people passing to watch, guard, and bark at. However, she did have an awful lot to tell me when I returned early the following morn. We cuddled up on the sofa whilst I went to sleep, and then the electrical guys rocked up and she went into guard mode.
So what is she? Ermmm? She is white with large black spots,
a bit of a card already, and a chirpy thing that is interested in anything and
everything. She likes crunchy Chinese biscuits, and already understands ‘Sit’
in English. She’s probably about 9-weeks old, and a very welcome addition to
our household. However, Chinese thinking is not like
It did not take Be Loi long to work out she could climb the stairs, but just as in the film ‘Still Crazy’ (Which is one of my favourites btw), she soon worked out it was trickier going down. It took her 4-days to reach my office, and good to have her with me. However, she isn’t into computers and found it all a bit boring. However, she did love the spare mattress in the room next door, which is on the floor at ideal puppy height, and the bedroll was destined to become her own property – that is, before Siu Ying discovered us and all hell broke loose.
Opps!
I have been trying to feed her the bones of spare ribs (And the spare ribs themselves), but Siu Ying is convinced dogs eat rice and fish. This will become a long and drawn-out battle I am sure. But me and Be Loi find it entertaining, especially as it is me that gets berated hehe! She also likes to watch television. Uhhh? And, she is also a bit too ‘sassy’ with one of the boy dogs who comes wandering by each morning. I make a note to watch her when the time is ripe. I will take her with us next week sometime, when we visit her birthplace, but I need to judge it correctly so that enough time has passed, but not too much. I am sure her Mom + brothers and sisters will be interested to know she is ok, but her Dad is a loner and will not be interested for sure.
However, one troubling thing is that Chinese do not know of ‘Pets’ as we do in the West. Dogs are used for work, guarding mainly, or reared as food in poor communities. Accept this fact; it is their Country and not yours. The islanders do not eat dog meat just to reassure you. In our own instance this revolves around whether Be Loi is a house dog, or an outside guard dog. I am used to dogs inside the house, whilst Siu Ying is not. Therefore most times the pup is left outside. Whilst the first few days were summer, dry and no problem; the last 3-days have witnessed unprecedented rain and a sharp cold front. I have been very concerned about Be Loi being outside, but when allowed in she was always warm and dry. This has been confusing me, as there is no immediate shelter as I could detect.
Never, ever, underestimate your wife! This is a golden rule for Boy’s, no matter what the circumstances are. It seems she did hear me and understand my misgivings, so had taken appropriate action without telling me. Upon arrival at our new home we inherited a wicker basket with ‘sort-of’ lid. It’s about a foot round and ideal for carrying washing to the clothes line and return. I had not noticed its disappearance until earlier today, when telling Siu Ying we needed a dog house to be made for Be Loi, she showed me her design. Outside our front door (Which is in a very sheltered place, there has been a large red plastic bag for a few days. I did clock this, but never looked inside. Looking down from our ground floor bedroom window, and just below into the red bag situated just below, and there I see the wicker basket complete with an assortment of old towels and similar; and perched atop was a very warm and comfortable Be Loi. Not my ideal dog-house, but a damn fine interim measure all the same.
I have not given up feeding her larger bones, but she does
enjoy Siu Ying feeding her chicken bones, something to be avoided in
Please remember
Meanwhile, island life continues for the islanders, irrespective of our own minuté:
Island Life:
One of the things I find quite fascinating and rewarding, is how simple some pleasure can be. For instance, we regularly walk to the ferry, and along the road we encounter things that you at home may never have experienced.
My first relates to a couple of commercial fish ponds and
fish jumping in the late summer’s eve. Splash! That’s how it goes, and
occasionally a glimpse of a large fish airborne. My musical mind immediately
starts playing ‘Summertime’, the old Blues classic, and especially a very slow
version I was once privileged to watch live at Walsall Jazz Club, sung by a
white ‘Moma’ to great effect. Dawn, you may remember this? And all this way
back in time and in the
The Black Country is known to all in UK, and represents and
area of West Midlands that is renowned for heavy industry and mining = hence
the term. In these days of political correctness I am aware readers from other
shores may possibly have a problem with this terminology. Please do not; as it
refers to the local people of this area who are proud to be called ‘A
Kids with Trumpets
One of our morning routines involves the local kids going to school at 7.30am. It is a bit like an automatic time check really, excepting at week-ends. A couple of the kids have perspicacity for blowing trumpets very loudly; and usually very badly. These instruments were originally designed to wake the dead, so waking the living is definitely ‘Not a problem’. Sleeping through the racket is more of an art. There is happily a reprise shortly after 11.30, which is for me a far more comfortable time to consider facing a new day. However, I have absolutely no problems with this, as I do love music, and hope that they will take this from playground skills – on, and maybe eventually to the international stage. Who knows? The boys concerned have already learnt how to say: Hello. Jonno, How are you + Be Loi finds their antics very intriguing. They are accompanied by a host of other small people … well several dozen at least, some of whom love to stop for a moment and play with Be Loi.
Personal Agriculture
Cutting grass by hand is very common on the island, and I have witnessed this being done with hand-scythes, and also scissors. It is accepted and as part of island routines as the seasons turn. There is no machinery to do this, so hand labour is always order of the day. The ‘Hay’ is mainly left to dry and used as tinder, not for animal feed, and is open to all islanders
Most Islanders also have what is best termed ‘Allotments’, and they are self-sufficient by growing all their daily needs in any vacant plot nearby. Some make this a more commercial concern, but most only grow enough to feed immediate family + a few friends. There is also a small degree of specialization, whereby certain people may grow one cop, whilst a neighbour grows another. This leads immediately to a culture of Barter, an important part of the island economy. From these people Siu Ying has learnt to buy excess, and this provides our table with ample fresh produce at a moments notice = 5-minutes from allotment, via cooker, to table. Delicious!
The single and only main road has streetlights, whilst all the lanes and alleyways have nothing. It’s ok, and nothing to get hung about. This main road connects the ferry to the island centre, fortunately passing within a few yards of our home down the lane. I am pleased my night-vision still works very well, and wouldn’t change it – as my god gave me eyes to see in the dark, so I may as well use this gift. Feeling threatened = not me, I actually quite like the dark and the new interpretations it brings.
All free land is common land, so as in common with Greater China, can be cultivated by anyone. This in fact means that roadside verges and land outside of the Dyke are usually under some form of cultivation. Planting on verges, everywhere is the norm. This extends to what I know as late season planting, and even in mid-October! Even this time, as I evidence, there is still time to grow cabbages and lettuce before it gets too cold for growth. Preparation and planting is usually done slowly, a little bit each day. The islanders do have irrigation channels for larger husbandry, but the verges necessitate water to be supplied by either Man or Woman power, and both sexes work the fields equally hard. Chinese employ a straight bamboo pole to carry weights, with either end being attached to a bucket or suitable ‘hold-all’. Bend your neck down and swing to swap shoulders. For watering these hold-all tend to be large plastic buckets, to which a spout has been ingeniously attached. This enables them to water several rows of crops at the same time. It is hard work of course, but doing it little by little each day lessens the burden.
Going Banana’s
Otherwise, and as is common in this wider area, there are Bananas
everywhere else! Years ago when I first visited
China produces three types of what we term Banana: Proper
bananas, which are sweet and succulent; straight bananas, which are slightly
sweet and a tad pithy (The common version grown hereabouts – and the one that
coerced the European mandarins to introduce a law banning them, although this
was largely reported as regards banning their shape, and not variety); and a
third which is ‘Very nice’.
Near the village centre and adjacent to the morning wet market is a tranquil place set aside as a small park. Under the towering old Banyan trees are a couple of meandering paths which link to a central seating area. Within this area shrubs of various descriptions are kept well trimmed, and form delineators for low beds of flowers and colourful small plants whose layout echoes traditional Chinese characters.
Otherwise vegetation is of the wild variety, with many old
and well established trees set in virtually everyone’s garden. One especially
pleasing aspect is the abundance of bougainvillea, which can be found growing
in many sheltered places. I even have one outside my office window growing in
the balcony plant trough.
Animals and Wildlife
Here I am referring to the indigenous population, and not
those associated with
There are snakes, including some that are semi-poisonous. I have never seen one yet, and hope I am never a beneficiary of any encounters. The same with spiders, as most Chinese spiders are very small and quite cute (As far as spiders go), and jump around. But there are some very large, nasty and poisonous ones also = tarantella size! However, unless it is considered as food, Chinese always let and let live. I have mentioned previously other common pests such as cockroaches and mosquitoes, so what else is around?
Well: we have houseflies, which are few and very quick; some
small rats as evidenced squashed on the roads, although I have never met one
personally. These are very small, and more akin to large mice + definitely not
in the same caliber as the Welsh Super-Rats our farm in
Apart from morning Trumpeters, we also have a Dawn Chorus = Birds! One of our backyard Banana trees is home to a Magpie and his cohorts. I actually like Magpie’s and can tell the sex of English ones just by looking at them – the females have more rounded white. Chinese ones are very similar, yet dissimilar. There are many other birds here of all shapes and sizes. I suppose it is in fact very similar to an English park in summertime, and although some species may be different, the overall throng is about the same sort of mix.
The island is home to a variety of ‘cats’. I’m not sure what they are, but they appear a bit twitchy. I am not a ‘Cat’ person particularly, although I do like Jaguars (As in the car). However, and despite these missives; I do have compassion – so hearing a ‘catling’ squawking one day I tried to investigate, but getting nowhere - put it down to it being feral. It did leave me with a feeling this being was in some sort of trouble or distress. Meowing cats can become a very invasive sound, and I concluded this one was: female, and adolescent, and cast out to make its own life. Incidentally, the local word here for cats is ‘Mieow’.
The very next evening I was beset by worries about this ‘catlet’, yes that’s the right terminology: ‘Catlet’. It was cold outside and raining, but I was disturbed for its health and general safety, so we booted and attired-up and went to investigate. I think this confirmed for Siu Ying that all Foreigners are very crazy and highly stupid.
Ok, back to the Cat, sorry. It was a feral next door in the disused building, but had taken up residence in the lean-to abutting our courtyard. Well, I saw it by torchlight, even if Siu Ying did not. It was a semi-long haired grey; and quite unusual, because all island cats have short hair. The young cat seriously did not like my interference in her life, as witnessed by lots of hissing and feral-catultry. I leave the bitch to it, and wonder why I bothered to care in the first place. Damn, but I am very wet, and Siu Ying is very not impressed with me either. Ho-hum! My Tunisian made sandals (That everyone hates, except me) are leaking.
Ferry schedules
The island ferry is a grand thing, or actually two off. As previously mentioned, there are two floating pontoons which act as ‘Roll-on, roll-off’ plus two tugs to power transit. There are five crew aboard for any one crossing, plus others on shore duty at both ends, and other still on standby or resting. There are probably a dozen bods working in total.
This ferry is excellent and too international standards re
safety issues and general operations. However, it echoes
The jetty area is also home to a herd of ‘Water oxen’. These are a bit like cows, or buffalo, but love to spend their summer days cooling in the river. Sometimes they are more like crocodiles, with all but their noses submerged. The opposite bank of this island is very similar in this respect, but there the oxen prefer to wallow in sink-holes. Whatever; I like them, and let them be. Their work is to till the fields ready for planting of crops using a single furrow wooden plough with metal share. It work’s fine, so don’t knock it until you try it. It also provides work for the two main Oxen Operators on the island – so what use is a tractor then in fields that remain flooded for 4-months per year (Or may flood)?
The
Now let us return to the island centre, and in particular the communial toilet block. This is a brick-built structure and home to a colony of frogs. Mama frog guards the entrance, ably supported by her offspring from time to time – or ‘hop to hop’? Inside the toilets are open-plan, but are divided into male and female sections. As far as I can tell, the only difference is that the male side has a gutter running along one tiled wall, whilst the female side does not include this facility. Each has three stalls open to a convenient squatting head height, presumably to aid conversation with other users? Excrement then passes down a duct which does eventually connect through the outer wall via pipe to a septic tank, so effluent is not a problem. The toilets themselves are of course a Chinese hole in the floor and those with bad knees will find squatting to be a serious problem. Take your own toilet paper of course, and wash in the sink placed handily on the free wall.
What does make this place interesting for all the wrong reasons, is that some bright spark has fitted sound activated lights + integral daylight on-off control. This is fine if all you need is a quick wazz, but if you have to spend any length of time encubicled, then the lights tend to go out, usually at the most inopportune of moments. The activator is actually situated at the entrance, so if you are incumbent in trap three say, and furthest away from the door, then you usually have to wait for another to enter in order for the lighting to come back on again. Other options for turning the lights back on can be a little awkward as you may appreciate?
Men’s vs women’s
roles in island society
As with
People often return to the island to live once they are married, although most of the local inhabitants have always lived on the island. The men tend to go out to work early in the morning, returning home for evening meal with the family. Often the family works as a unit, so both men and women will till the fields or man the fishing boats. Often it the woman who does the rowing, with oars that they work from a standing position, and in reverse to the way we would normally row a boat. The children will be expected to help in the family business, and learn the family trade just as I used to when a child. Regarding other families, the husband works alone at his job, and his wife stays at home and looks after the home. This will include all traditional duties like: washing, cooking, cleaning, rearing and looking after the children, and growing food in the family allotment. For those who make a living by selling goods in the local marketplace, the differing roles of the sexes are well highlighted. The men will normally carry the heavy goods and drive a vehicle if this is part of the situation. If the goods for sale are of a household nature, being not fresh produce – then it is the men who organize the business side and deliver to the island. However it is the women who will man the store and sell the goods. The profits will be her personal money, and also contribute towards the family budget.
The differences between the sexes are better highlighted by what happens when they are not working. The men will tend to group together for social activities like drinking tea or more usually, rice wine. The women do not normally enjoy this type of pastime, although there is no ban on women joining if they want to, and occasionally one or two do. Both men and women play Mah J’ere (Mah Jjong), but usually at different tables, and this would also be at different venues too. They also play cards, or rather a totally fuckwitted card game based loosely upon the rules according to Hoyle. It is as crazy a game as ‘Ocky-Knocky’; and having tried it a few times, I am sad to report that I still have absolutely no idea what the rules are all about.
The men do not do much else in their spare time, whilst the majority of women tend to prefer ‘Shopping’ instead. Some knit or make the families clothes, including shoes on occasions – but generally as in the West, most items are now store-bought. More elderly couples tend to have slowed their pace of life, whilst still remaining active into their 80’s and even 90’s. I have met three old ladies now who are in their 90’s and still quite spritely for their age. They are Grandmothers, and one is a Great-Grandmother. It is usually the husbands Mother who looks after the babies and infants – as you may recall the bride upon marriage becomes a new daughter of her husbands’ parents. Accordingly, families tend to be close-knit and as a single unit unlike the West. The children expect their duty to be to care for ageing parents in old age. It blows their mind when I mention we pay people to look after our children for us when we go out at night – “But why do you exclude them from your life?” they ask bewildered. It is the same for the elderly – why do you lock them away in a home instead of caring for them yourself, it is your duty. They have a very good point perhaps?
Smoking is very common on the island, and unusually for
Aeroplanes
One quite bizarre occurrence is that every evening between about 8 and 9 0’clock, there is a procession of aircraft in the skies above. They fly over in groups of three, but at various altitudes and at any one time perhaps three or four groups are visible. They are notable by the fact they show a red light in all directions + a white light from in front. I presume these are military aircraft, as otherwise our skies are virtually clear of any air traffic. They are also very quiet, so we are not troubled by engine noise at all. I just thought to mention this phenomena in passing, as in some incongruous and artistic way, they remind me of Bees.
It’s about time to wind up this section and put it on the web for all to read. I hope you have enjoyed these differing glimpses of Island Life, and you are most welcome to come and experience it for yourselves of course at first hand.
Until next time, when I shall recount our adventures in the
nearby town of
Jonno