Travelling at Chinese New Year

This letter will be shorter than most, and concentrate more on what actually happens when using Chinese transportation over the Chinese New Year period. It will also focus on travel to Hong Kong and finding accommodation in Kowloon. Therefore much of the content is aimed at advising Expat’s and visitors in general, although I will of course sprinkle this with observations and anecdotes as usual.

Chinese New Year (CNY) officially falls on the 1^st day of the lunar Year, and for 2010 this was 14^th February. It will last until the ides of February, which is Lantern Festival, or the 15^th day of the lunar month, which you will know better as 28^th February. Being a lunar holiday, the dates vary each year as per our Easter. This year the great day falls on the same day as Valentine’s Day, the first time the two dates have coincided for 37-years. Chinese preparations begin several weeks in advance, with the whole house being spring-cleaned from top to bottom. Children, especially University and college students return home as early as they can to help with this. Chinese decorations for gates and doorways are renewed, and blessings offered to their esteemed ancestors at what can best be termed the family shrine. I have previously described these in detail (See ‘Village Life in Guangdong’ and ‘Reflections’) so will not repeat myself here.

This period is very similar to the Christmas and New Year holidays in Blighty, so virtually everything stops for about 10 days. All migrant workers will return home for a week, and transportation can be chaotic. For instance, Guangzhou main railway station was catering for One and a Quarter Million people every day, for ten days straight! Then there are the other railway stations, airports, bus stations, and independent travel operators (Coaches). Guangzhou alone laid on extra trains and 100’s of extra coaches solely for this period. To give you a sense of scale, this year about 65 Million people travelled home in Guangdong Province alone during the 10 days before CNY. That is more than the population of the entire United Kingdom (Currently around 62 Million).

My point for all foreigners in China during this period is that if you plan on using public transportation within the month that includes: the 2-weeks before CNY, and the 2-weeks after CNY; then buy your tickets well in advance, and expect to pay at least a 10% premium. Book your hotel well in advance also, and be mindful of this special time for Chinese people.

I use public transport to commute between my wife and child in Toisan (Tai Shan), and the faithful old bus is fine. I was asked to pay and extra Y5 RMB, but so was everybody else. This rose to Y15 RMB 2-days before CNY, and lasted for 5-days. The fare is normally Y30, so this is no problem for me. There is a similar peak of a couple of days when everybody returns of course, but this is never as big a problem. The reason is that virtually all Chinese peoples make a new plan for the coming year around this period, with the annual movements of migrant workers being the focus as regards Guangdong Province in particular. During this time, local and inter-city buses continued to operate, but at reduced scale and irrespective of published timetables. Therefore you just turn up at a bus stop and wait. Bus stations will have a sign somewhere showing the holiday schedules.

The same is true for the island ferry, which did continue to operate every day, but for 2-weeks the timetable has been totally irrelevant. With the vagary of bus schedules compounding travel itineraries, I chose midday travel as my norm, and it worked well. However, I did have the looming prospect of having to go to Hong Kong for a new visa on or before 20^th of February. I seriously considered going on the 8^th or 9^th, but this just simply didn’t feel right + it would waste virtually 2-weeks visa. I Googled and soon found the local ferry website in English, which is operated by a company called CKS who offer all the local routes hereabouts. I can actually see the ferry terminal from my roof garden. However, to get there I have to travel a very long way around. The owner of my local restaurant said it would be no problem for him to take me there in his small fishing boat – Chinese are so kind this way, and he definitely would not accept any money for taking me.

I don’t know what it was – feelings or intuition, but nothing seemed to gel with me about this trip. I am half Irish, and am known to see the world differently from most people. On Wednesday morning, 17^th February, I called the offices of CITS (China International Travel Service) in Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; and asked if they were able to offer visa service this week. They replied they were, and as long as I presented all documents and processed them before the 9.30 am cut-off time, then I could have the new visa the same day. This sounded very good to me. I called my usual hotel in Jordan, Kowloon; and speaking only Cantonese, was disappointed to find they were fully booked for the entire period. I will need to find a new place to stay then.

So the next morning I arose at 5am, intending to take the first ferry to the local town, and then catch a bus from the highway to either Foshan or Le Cong. Buses and ferries are booked from 5* Hotels, and I knew the specific locations for travelling via Shunde Port to Hong Kong (HK). This would be a long and tiring trip, and I simply couldn’t get my head around it in practice. I was ready packed, and made a coffee at 5.30 am intending to catch the 6.20 ferry. So I sat at my computer watching the minutes count down, cooked a triple meal for Be Loi; and waited. By 6.10 am I knew I would not be catching the ferry, but did not know why? I work like this sometimes – and you may call it intuition. My route should be the local ferry opposite; but having called them, my Cantonese was not good enough and it appeared all seats were already taken. Ho-hum.

I considered the same options again the next morning, but this thing really isn’t happening. I really do not want to spend 10 or 12 hours simply to get a lot of hassle on a trip to HK. I am tapping away at the computer when I hear a voice from outside my office window – it is So San asking me if I would like to join him for lunch. I see no reason why not, as I do like the guy very much. However, I hesitate whilst speaking to him, because I have it in my mind to catch the local ferry to HK, which means I am leaving within the hour. He says he has to go and pray to the Buddha there later today, so will drop me to the ferry terminal. Excellent! Soon we are eating lunch at his sister’s house, which turns out to be the house directly behind where I live. Along the way he asks if I have booked a ticket, and I reply I have not. He asks if I have the number, which I do, and calling the terminal again, I hand the phone over to him. All the seats are taken, but as he is a very highly respected person, he manages to get one seat for me. The schedule is also changed, and the ferry departs at 4.45, not 4pm as published. Suddenly everything has worked out, and I know this is the right time and way to go.

So San’s sister’s house is very similar to my own, but a little larger in most respects, especially outside. The first floor (Second floor for USA) is also completed by more bedrooms, but it does not have the third storey my own does. Outside there is also a very useful building which is full of Chinese things of daily work life. To the rear is a gate which leads to a cabbage patch about 30 yards square, then a small irrigation ditch; the other side of which is a similar space occupied by a banana forest, and then my own rear garden wall. There is parking around the house for a dozen vehicles or more, and a fine old Chinese Grapefruit tree standing in front of the main entrance to the property, which is at the rear of the outside gate. I like this house very much.

Entering I am greeted by two of So San’s sister’s, Number 1 Sister, and Number 2 Sister. No. 1 Sister has her couple of teenage lads idling by, whilst we are soon joined by No 2 Sister’s husband – whom I don’t clock properly at first. The meal is a Cantonese ‘Hotpot’, basically a meal of three parts: First off is chicken cooked in water + herbs and spices. Once finished this is replaced by fish, again in the same pot. The third part is conducted once the fish is eaten, and centres around cabbagey things. I had been relating a tale to So San, when I am offered a large glass of pretty good red wine by No2 sister’s husband. I would prefer a small glass of beer, but being honoured guest in their home, I accept with due honours. I am becoming increasingly aware I know this guy, hampered by the fact he is being very modest and demure – probably due to the company (So San, not myself – for he is an extremely important person). And then it dawns on me – this guy is ‘Laughing Jack’ I meet him some mornings when I go down for ‘Sik Juk’. Wow! I really like this guy, and wonder how anybody can be so full of fun at 6am, or whatever confounded time the clock relates. He of course knew all along whom I was – as I am the only foreigner living here.

Whilst this wasn’t a faux pas on my part, it was close, so I make some jokes translated by So San, and we are all happy and enjoy a special meal of sharing. So San tells me Laughing Jack took over a fish pond last year, and spent a lot of money on buying the best feed etc. When came time to sell the fish, it seems he only just broke even. The market was depressed, and the fish were small = not his lucky time. This year just gone he didn’t buy special fish food, and rearing sprats from home, let them feed mainly on pond weed, or cabbage as they call it. In fact, Chinese fish farmers actually do feed fish with cabbage. The results were tremendous = the fish were bigger and sold well + he made a handsome profit. Good on you Jack, I know you work very hard and this is your just reward.

Meanwhile, returning to the table at hand and we find So San is intent on heaping all manner of things into my bowl. His crazy mate ‘Naughty Boy’ is not with him this time, so at least I have no worries about getting drunk today. Naughty Boy does like a drink, and we get on very well together. Another blessing, and I know today will happen like magic. However, the mere fact that So San is filling my bowl and my bowl only; indicates I also have an extremely high profile.

As the drinks flow (A little, but not too much), So San asks me if I know why I am tapping my finger in thanks every time my glass is replenished. I know two reasons and relate them, but apparently I still have a lot to learn! The real reason it appears is because the famous Qing Emperor known as Qing Long once paid a visit in disguise to this part of China. It was a subterfuge, as he wanted to observe the people without them knowing he was their Emperor. However, the small Court accompanying him had to find ways to show respect in social situations, and so they developed the habit of tapping their two fingers on the table whenever Qing Long topped up their glasses. This tap was made using the index and middle fingers of the right hand, with the metacarpals being touched repeatedly to the table. In this way they were able to continue the subterfuge, whilst still paying homage to the Emperor. So San then added that this practice is peculiar only to Cantonese peoples today, and has since developed so that it is customary table manners for all Cantonese. However, never underestimate being Cantonese, because today each area has developed its own special way of tapping. In Foshan the index finger only is tapped up to four times. In HK the index and middle fingers are used in sets of repeated beats of two, with only the finger tips touching the table. This is one way you can learn where a person actually comes from in Canton (Greater Guangdong Province). Practically; it is also a very useful way of saying ‘Thank you’ without disrupting the flow of conversation around the table.

I could probably write another few pages describing this meal and its anecdotes in detail, but I do not want to stray too far from the point of this missive, which is my impending departure for Hong Kong. However, I do learn that So San has a Hongkongian wife; as does Leung San. I ponder this fact, and conclude it must be to do with business and international travel. It is very conspicuous for these high level businessmen.

The meal ends quickly, as is Chinese fashion; and we depart in time to catch the 3pm ferry. So San goes to wish his Mother goodbye (She lives adjacent to my gaff), whilst I get my things together and think to wait outside. The ferry has departed when we arrive, and seems to be operating continuously at this time. The published timetable is out of the window of course, so 20 minutes later the ferry docks and cars are soon three abreast on its deck. This is a serious transportational nightmare. I have never known the ferry this busy, but the staff are excellent.

During the journey So San invites me to join his island development project – something he has been considering for 10 years or so. Housing on the island is basically divided between 3 small villages with perhaps two-thirds of the building lying unoccupied, but looked after by relatives. He says there are about three hundred families living on the island at present, and by this he means extended families. From local government I know there to be over three thousand people registered as living on this island alone. So San’s plan is to rationalise the housing = knocking everything down and building about ten apartment blocks for the residents to move into. This then liberates a vast tract of land ideally suited for making a Golf Course of international standard. He adds that nothing would happen without the approval of the islanders, and the development would provide new jobs and security + a better lifestyle. His plans include a posh hotel, clubhouse and restaurant. They gel particularly well with my own plans for developing a Yacht club and Marina featuring water sports and water based activities. Additionally, he will bring the funding for all, including my Marina to the tune of many million US Dollars. The entire project comes in at over One Billion USD.

This project would doubtless make me a rich man, and others even wealthier. It would rejuvenate the island and attract younger people to stay and work here. The Marina in particular can work in association with Chinese Customs officials nearby, offering International facilities for visiting pleasure boats from Hong Kong, Macao, and further afield. This in turn opens up a completely new market for business launch rentals – a floating office with full support crew, computers and telecom, etc. Ideal for business people needing to travel to and from China unhindered by the constraints of public or wheeled transportation.

Therefore you may wonder why I have a problem with this proposal? My problem is regarding the islanders themselves, some of whom have never left this small place in their entire lives. They live a rustic life in homes that have been handed down for generations. Virtually all of them live off the land – they grow their own crops and fish, and sell surplus at the local markets. They are well used to wandering outside and picking crops for dinner, or going to the shop at the end of the lane. Whilst the few remaining younger people may prefer to live in a modern apartment, I am not convinced the older generation would or could adapt to this new lifestyle. Some of these people are in their 90’s (So San’s own Mother being one of these), and as we know well from the mistakes made during the 1960’s in Blighty, when whole communities were uprooted en mass, and shoved into council housing high-rise, with disastrous social consequences. Conversely, Chinese tend to build new ‘Gardens’ as we call them here, with a social hub. A typical structure is as follows: Basement for car parking. Ground floor is set aside for small shops, plus a few entrances scattered around. The next two floors are normally for supermarkets and larger stores, although can contain a smaller version on the island, with community and social functions. The next floor is basically a very large flat roof, often with kiddies play area and swimming pool. From this arise blocks of living accommodation, each one offering several alternative sizes and internal layouts. Another common format is the ‘Garden’, which is a secure compound gated by security personnel. A peaceful garden is made with pools and streams, interspersed by roads and apartment blocks. These have a central building that serves as restaurant, sports halls, and community area. I have seen these with shops on the ground floor of the high-rise, but they are not common. So San’s grand design also includes linking with the shore via a new road bridge which will connect both shores and both islands. This really does change the entire aspect of the project.

Today I remain completely undecided which way to go on this project. It seems with my help this can become a reality over the next couple of years. But a have doubts concerning the daily lives and general wellbeing of the islanders who have accepted me so readily into their community. If I were a person motivated by monetary greed, then the choice would probably be very simple. But I am not. However, I am also sure this project will happen some time within the next few years, with or without me. Therefore perhaps if I am deeply involved, I can make a notable difference to the eventual social outcomes of the design. There are many other aspects to this I will not bore you with here, as it is time to move on with this missive. However, if anybody has an interest or comment to suggest, then please email me, as your input and advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you.

So San drives us to the CKS ferry, and waits to confirm his booking of my ticket, and ensures I am safely inside where I need to be before departing. He is a gentleman. This is the first time I have made this particular trip, so his help is invaluable and deeply appreciated. The Customs process is very simple, and there is only one channel – so I guess not many foreigners use this route then? The Chinese Customs officials are very good and process me without any problem. I did not expect one actually, but you may have been wondering about this. The ferry is actually running about 30 minutes late, and this is fine. We cast-off at 5.10pm and the schedule says 2.5 hours to HK. I have it in my mind this will actually be 3 hours, but at 7.44 precisely, I am through Hong Kong Customs and heading out on Canton Road. Fantastic, and no hassle whatever.

You know, I love to travel, but actually hate the physical travelling bit. This was a truly excellent trip and I arrive chilled, well rested, very well looked after; and ready to face finding a bed for tonight in Hong Kong. I immediately head for Cheung King Mansions, which lies in the very heart of Nathan Road and Tsim Sha Tsui. It is a ten minute walk, lies opposite CITS, and within 5-minutes walk of everything I need to do in HK. I actually researched this online, and already knew there are cheap rooms to be had hereabouts.

Cheung King Mansions is the abode of every nationality, and a hubbub of activity. I had walked passed many times before, but never ventured inside. If you want to understand Hong Kong, then you need to spend a few minutes here. Awesome! It’s a bit like ‘Pocket London’, and presents no problem for Brits. I head looking for one of the hotels I saw online, and am soon faced with a queue for the right hand lift which services odd-numbered floors. The other side is virtually empty. I consider the queue on the right, before thinking it is far more sensible to arrive one floor higher and walk down a short flight of stairs. This I do, in company with some American Teen girls who aren’t particularly chatty, and definitely into their own lifestyle. I find a guy in reception – who is of African roots, and very helpful. Sure his hotel is full tonight, but he does tell me to go to ‘Block C’ = down the elevator and turn left. There are rooms in that bit. Cheung King Mansions is actually a warren comprised of 3 interlinked high-rise, with communal first few floors for business activities = very Chinese.

The access point to Block C is actually at the furthest end of this mall, and as with the rest of this building, seems to be mainly occupied by cheap hotels … I use the word advisedly. My instincts kick-in, and having arrived at the last block, I consider I may as well start my search for a room at the top – I press 13 and hope for the best. Well blow me down with a feather; I immediately step out of the lift and a guy calls me from the left asking if I need a room? Yes. He is from Guyana and works the nightshift. The room is small, very small actually; but has a Western toilet, shower, and single bed. Asking the price, I am quoted HK$170 per night, highest season. I book two nights immediately, shove my bag in to room, get the keys, and am away for a beer at Café Fountainé. Excellent!

I board the lift in company with three guys speaking Arabic of some description. They are Middle Eastern, and definitely not Israeli, but I am not sure of their roots – perhaps Lebanon? It is irrelevant for a short ride in a lift (Elevator). However, they turn left outside of the small lift foyer, and becoming intrigued – as there is nothing else here, I follow them. 15 paces later we enter a warren of local backstreets, again beset with a throng of people doing whatever they are doing. There are small shops here, and the sky is a very long ways distant from this small passageway set amidst the concrete high-rise all around. I am not fazed, though make a mental note not to return this way alone late at night – it could be a little dangerous? Navigation is not difficult here and we soon exit onto the side street of a street I know very well … and that saved me 5-minutes walking. Cool!

Arriving 5 minutes later in Centenary Square, I am bestraught for a moment to find that Café Fountainé is closed for the holidays. They open 10am tomorrow. Great, because I always did want to see what was on offer next door? This restaurant turns out to be a Hong Kong version of Thai cuisine and the beer girl wants me to drink Tiger Beer from Singapore. I quite like this one actually, and although she isn’t very good at western sales techniques, she does remain quite chatty and pretty. The staff are excellent (Just like next door), and understand foreigners = being British I like to drink for a while, and then order food. I can’t be done with this sitting down and immediately ordering a meal, which is the norm and so prevalent in Mainland China. First I need to chill, and accept that my intuition proved to be correct on this occasion. I conclude that CITS should open at 8am tomorrow, which leaves me the best part of 12 hours to kill. I then realise why the bar I usually use next door is closed = there are no customers. I do know where to go if I want the high-life, but a few chilling beers hits my spot tonight. I watch and work out most of the staff are probably Thai, but the chef is from Hong Kong. The guy who ends up replenishing my glass is not Siamese, but I know his kind somehow. I ask him where he is from and he says ‘Nepal’. Wow! I immediately say ‘Namaste’, which I think means ‘greeting, you are welcome’. He is a little amazed, but replies cordially. Thank You Dave and Dawn. Consider that when this day began for me, I did not consider that I would be saying ‘Hello’ to a Nepali in his own language. Asi es la vida!

However, his role is actually to stand outside and garner patronage, so our exchanges are minimal unfortunately. Later I order a Thai Green Curry, expecting this to be hot, only to find it doesn’t contain lemongrass, and is a tad mild. Nothing remotely similar to my ex, Yupa, who cooks a very mean selection of Thai dishes. It was very palatable all the same, and far better than the dreaded MacDonald’s. However, unlike the bar next door, no one stops by to chill, pass the time of day, or simply have a few beers. It’s a little lonely, so I do not linger more than a couple of hours, and head towards my gaff. Of course I return via the back alley, and it is no problem as all the threatening reprobates have long since departed. Anyway; I am acting as if I have lived here all my life, so blend in pretty well.

I have set my alarm for 7.20, but awaken a couple of hours before naturally. And this just about sums up what Hong Kong is all about for me personally = hanging around wasting time whilst waiting for a new visa. I have simply no other reason for being here. I have already done all the tourist stuff I want to, and this is now a great bore. I stick it out until 7.52am, before hitting the street and CITS – who I find don’t open until 9am. I also need to give HSBC a bollocking today, but they also don’t open until 9am. Priorities: Number 1; new visa; Number 2’ sorting out HSBC. Whilst my hotel does offer communal hot water from the flask in the foyer, it doesn’t provide drinking vessels, so I head for a coffee house. This is only 50 yards away, but complicated by being at the other side of the block. I find it accidentally, whilst resuming my quest to locate the fabled HSBC ATM machines – which are supposedly on the Nathan Road side of the building, and left a bit. Ordering a basic coffee, I retire to a window seat and read the China Southern Daily in English. I note a very interesting article by one of their correspondents relating to America’s place in the world, and know with the rise of the Chinese Dragon, a new world order is not far from coming. The article noted that whilst Europe did not become the new Rome, it has become a powerful economy beset by nationalist hegemonies and a world view related more to former glories than the modern world. Their correspondent then added that the problem that will eventually hamstring USA (If it has not already done so?), is that they are hampered by a constitution that is so highly valued, that it cannot change with the times. Even the few men of vision who want to move America forwards become entrapped within the two-party system that essentially puts party politics before the nations needs, and extinguishes any progressive forward movement. Therefore instead of looking out into the real world as a whole and perceiving the true global future, it is suffocating within an insular shell of internal self-interests. These are not my own words, but I do find this view of the world quite interesting and worthy of future deliberation. But for now, let’s leave this article behind and return to the streets of Hong Kong.

I leave at 8.52, and whilst considering the West really does not know what it is up against, I walk the street back to CITS, and discover the elusive HSBC cash machines. So it is not: go down the escalator and they are on the left – but actually: go down the escalator, out of the door, turn left and immediately left again, duck down the alleyway and walk a couple of hundred yards to the far end, then left again. Cool.

CITS is very easy and all the staff there speak high quality English. The visa I want is a small problem, soon over-ridden by a supervisor. I pay by credit card, and head for a face-off with HSBC. I walk ten yards to their flagship Branch in this location, only to be denigrated because I am not a member of their ‘VIP’ club, whatever they call it. No! I want business services, and the girl politely tells me that this is located across the road at number 62 Nathan Road. Well it definitely isn’t! I spent 20 minutes investigating every quarter of Mirador Mansions – Ground floor, 4^th floor, 3^rd floor, 2^nd floor, and even floor 1A. I then walked around the whole of the block; simply because in Hong Kong, the façade is the street address, and this does include all of the side streets.

Plan B is to buy corned beef + hopefully some British sausages, so I head-off for “Park’n’Shop” just off Austin Road. Well surprise, surprise! Number 82 Nathan Road turns out to be home to HSBC Commercial Banking. I guess the pretty girl with good English from the other branch wasn’t very good at counting and numbers then. Do I want to be with this Bank? I have this thing in my head that suggests Banks should be extremely good with numbers, and all their staff also. Maybe it is a Chinese ‘Pretty Girl’ thingymagig? Therefore I enter in mind-set to take no prisoners, but remind myself to remain calm and be pleasant. The girl is immediately available, and soon sorts out what my problems are. The webpage defaulted too when accessed from China, is not the same as the webpage they bring up. There are some monkeys within this particular banana boat then. I do have a lot to do here, but am sorted completely within 10-minutes. This Bank seems ok, when used in HK.

Now for Austin Road (And heading right, also right again a bit lower down), where I will buy some corned beef. This is UK style Bully Beef, sold in weird shaped cans, made in Brazil, with Libby’s written all over the wrapper. However, along the way I encounter “Market Place”, a brand name and independent seller of some very nice food items. Much of their produce is organic, or of the right Brand’s. If I were quasi rich in Hong Kong, then I would probably shop here as my main destination. However, they do not sell Rowntree’s Chocolate Oranges, nor Hellman’s Mayonnaise. This is a very big problem! However, they do stock Libby’s corned beef at a discounted price of 25% off. The staff are extremely welcoming and helpful, and exactly how Brits like them – there whenever you need them, and not there when you do not. Excellent!

I could spend a lot of money in this store, but all I want is Bully Beef and Hellman’s Mayo. I take a cigarette break and head for Park’n’Shop, which is just around the corner, and now three times larger than before! I troll the isles of chocolates and anything vaguely related, only to find they no longer sell Chocolate Oranges. I had the same problem when I last flew out from UK, as there does seem to be a contractor who supplies all British airports with international chocolates, which no longer includes this. Must be a european thingymagig. Instead, there were presented endless isles of Quality Street and Lindt, exactly the same as this shop in Hong Kong. Somebody, somewhere - has totally missed the point: so I exorcised my personal prerogative – and did not put anything in my basket. I wander around wondering where they might have moved the Hellman’s to, when I happen upon a small trolley of discounted products tucked away in the very furthest back corner. On the top shelf are a dozen Chocolate Eggs, and at discount price. Hurrah! I buy four. I also soon add a four-pack of Imperial Leather soap for 80 pence, as my gaff has hot water and a bath towel, but does not supply soap. I then come across the mayo, and put in my basket a large jar of Hellman’s, and a monster jar of Miracle Whip, which I don’t enjoy quite as much, but it costs the same as the other one. I later add a tin of Campbell’s condensed Russian Borsch, as I have a mushroom dish I want to try and make at home. I find a freezer pack of 16 Walls pork sausages, but at an equivalent cost of £ 7 I have no intention of buying. Nearby is the corned beef, but the price is 25% more than the other shop. I decide that if they sell big blocks of Cadbury’s milk chocolate here, then I will buy all items in this place; if not I will go back to the other shop. They have one bar of this chocolate left, and it has something pink added to it. I want the plain one, so head for the till and back to whence I came. I am given a free present – a box of some description containing? My Cantonese is good, and I am quickly on my way. Back in the other shop I stow my purchases behind the counter, and the sales girl welcomes me immediately. I buy a ton of corned beef, and double large bars of Cadbury’s milk chocolate with nothing else added. The checkout is particularly friendly and the staff very, very good. I do like this place – if only they sold Hellman’s mayo in large jars. I head back to Cheung King Mansions taking the backstreets in order to avoid the hawkers selling counterfeit goods along Nathan Road – a very big problem in Kowloon.

I am soon doing nothing again, as I await for my visa to be processed. I do not expect any problems, but will not head off drinking or buy my ferry ticket home until I have said visa in my possession; a sensible precaution. Reviewing my purchases whilst I wait for the water heater to come to temperature, I see the free gift was a mug. Fantastic! This hotel also does not run to drinking vessels, so I make a coffee with powder I brought with me and the hot water outside. The actual owners are here at the moment, a Chinese couple who are amazed how well I speak Cantonese. I really don’t think so, but they are well made-up, so I go with the flow. I finish the coffee and have a welcome shower, then idle and do nothing for hours on end. I don’t even bother switching on the TV, primarily because I am sure it will only have a few channels, and also because there is no remote control.

I stick this until 5.30, and really cannot be done with it any more. I hit the street and whilst CITS stated my visa would be ready around 7pm – I know this to be Friday, so everything will probably be finished earlier than on any other day. I browse one shop and am looking for deodorant for my wife, and the vain hopes of some for myself. Most of these shops are Chains like Salsa and Bon Jour, and only stock the same items. What I want to buy are different items of course, which I know these chains do not stock. I espied a private retailer a few doors up, and am greeted by an experienced sales person. I ask her if they sell ‘Lotto’ female deodorant, and she tells me the agent that supplied these changed a couple of years ago, and the product is no longer available anywhere in Hong Kong. Real information, exactly what I needed. She enquires if I want to buy my wife a different version, and I say I will bring her to choose personally next time. I am about to leave, when she asks if there is anything else. I ask in the off-chance if she has any Davidoff roll-on deodorant for men. I really like this one because it is the only one that does not create large patches of white foam under your armpits when you are doing something strenuous, like dancing for hours. She replies in the affirmative, and produces their last stick. It costs the equivalent of about 9 quid = excellent! Wow! I am truly made-up now!

Perfumes are strange creatures. Coco Chanel made her name in the 1920’s or thereabouts, by producing a product that actually worked in practical applications – just the same as my Cool Water roll-on does for me. Perfumes are also interesting in that it is very easy to tell if they suit you. Whenever I apply a new Au de Cologne I know instantly if it suits me; do you know how I know? Well, I hate the spray versions, so use the ‘Slap it all over’ kind. If I put on an aftershave and cannot smell it, then I know it suits me very well. Again, Davidoff does this for me. A few others such as Moschinno, Egoist, and Eternity are also ok, but most do not suit me personally. Girls may relate to this with something like Champs Ellesse, which is a stunning perfume very few women can wear. When worn by the right person it is sensational. But I digress as I am prone to do…

Back on the streets of HK I decide to cross the road, as One: I like to travel different routes whenever possible. Two: There are less hawkers on this side of the street, and I do need to be here a block down the road. I pass a shop selling Chinese medicines, and out front is one of my wife’s favoured remedies. Although not on my shopping list, I decide to buy one for her regardless … maybe some brownie points for me : -)

At 5.52 I am standing outside CITS and with nothing better to do, decide to go in and wait. Entering I am immediately directed to the visa collection point and presented with my new visa. See, Friday’s do work hahaha! Excellent service and I am on my way. I then head for China Ferry terminal to buy my ticket for tomorrow morning – I would not normally bother, but this is still main-time CNY, so I am taking no chances. Ten minutes later and I have no problems getting the very last available economy class ticket. First class is also almost sold out. How do I know this? Well economy has 266 seats, and I have a ticket with seat number 266. That was a tad close then : -)

It is now definitely time for a beer, so I head-off for my favourite watering hole in HK. Café Fountainé is a bustle of activity and I am soon seated and drinking proper draught beer. Many of the staff know me well here and stop to chat when they have a moment. They comment upon my shorn locks, with about a 50-50 spread of opinion. I blame my wife – well she isn’t here, and we all enjoy the laugh.

The streets are actually a lot quieter than normal, but patrons come and go, but with no likely suspects arriving early doors. I remember that last time I was here I met Jim, the great guy from Seattle who has since become a very good friend of mine on the Chinese side of the border. He is now relaxing in Thailand, and if it were not for our new born, Siu Ying and I would also be there with him about this time. Cheers Jim!

Some time later a couple of guys from USA occupy the table next to mine. We chat and they are very interesting. Apparently they are looking for a bit of nightlife in Kowloon, having done Hong Kong Island last night. I direct them to ‘Sticky Fingers’, as this is a good general place to begin on this side of Victoria Bay. After a couple of beers they depart, whilst I am still trying to remember what it was Jim and I both ate here last time, as I want the same again soon. I think it had something to do with pork? I take a plunge for the pork curry, with extra fries and a side salad with delicious olives.

Top Hole! Exactly what I needed and what I had last time also.

As I consider the time is getting on a little, a great guy from France comes to the adjoining table. He is very chatty, and very international in outlook. We share a couple more beers and enjoy excellent conversation about anything and everything. A very entertaining interlude, thank you Alain Sroussi for spending an hour of your time with me. He then departs and I gather what little whits remain at my disposal, and ask for the bill. I actually want to pay cash, as my company card is for the deposit account, not the current account – as far as their machine is aware anyway. I do not want to use my personal card, so end up 11 RMB short in cash. The waitress says ‘No Problem’, and accepts my 10 RMB note in final payment.

Again I use the backstreets to go back to my gaff, and am soon ensconced in the towers of Cheung King Mansions. I remember to check I have set the alarm on my mobile, which I have already done – and the next thing I know it is bleeping at me, signalling 6.30am, and my time to rise and go home. This must be one of the shortest night’s sleep I have ever had. I note I also appear to still be a tad wrecked, but only just. I had of course already packed for leaving last afternoon, so it just remains for me to get into motion and hit China Ferry within the next 30 minutes or so. Easy. I pass a 24-hour MacDonald’s, and toy with the idea of a breakfast muffin, before remembering I spent all my HK dosh last evening. I actually need water more than anything else when all is said and done.

China Ferry is very efficient, and my timing great. I get through Customs immediately, and find my seat, which is right next to the door. The serving hatches are already open, so I buy a bottle of water as we cast off. I sip this back in my seat, and have that warm feeling about going home/job well done.

I try to sleep, but this is not happening as various parts of my body have decided they are awake. The cabin announcements are only in Cantonese (Except for the official ones in Mandarin), and I understand they are offering fresh beef pot noodle amongst the breakfast choices. That sounds interesting, so I go and get one. I continue to speak Cantonese, whilst two staff banter in Chinglish with me. This is fine and I welcome the exchange. One of the guys is peeling ginger, and as I decide to add some of the hidden bottle of chilli sauce to my pot, he comments in good English that this is a very good choice. I reply in kind, and it isn’t until I am back in my seat that I realise just how good his English actually was. Later I add a Nescafe coffee, and I am well made-up.

The Cantonese announcement indicates this trip will take a little longer due to adverse tidal conditions, meaning we will probably dock in Hoksan (He Shan) around 10.20. We actually get in 5-minutes earlier, and Customs is a breeze. Now this particular route is definitely not one frequented commonly by foreigners, so just to let you know that there is nothing to fear by going a little off the beaten path in China.

Outside I head for the coaches – which are not microbuses, but not proper coaches either. They are typical charabancs, painted white on top and dark blue beneath. I think this colour is used by all ferry connecting buses. I find the one I want by reading the Mandarin characters, whilst the drivers look on with a little credulity. Eventually one of them gets up enough courage to ask me if I want to go to ‘Jiu Jiang’, the Mandarin pronunciation of my destination. I reply in Cantonese by saying I want the bus to ‘Gao gong’. It appears I am the only passenger, and seeing as we both are smoking, we depart immediately, cigarettes not extinguished. For sure, he wants to know where I am going, and of course I cannot tell him. Durrrh! I actually want to see where this bus finishes, so I know where to go to catch it from if I ever need to again. We sort of hit and miss a bit, and I have the distinct impression he would gladly take me anywhere I wanted to go – like the ferry ramp to my island. But I have business in the town, so sit tight and wait to see where we eventually rock-up at.

This turns out to be a posh local hotel, well, no surprises there then. However, it is not one I would have immediately chosen as being the one that does the ferry connections to HK. We live and learn as they say. This hotel is ostensibly in a bit of a cul-de-sac, so using my initiative; I head for the canal and turn left – hopefully towards the town centre proper. Within 10 minutes I am in the town centre, and head for the Bank of China. The machine is Out of Order, meaning it is being topped up with cash. I deliberate over whether to stay or go, whilst enjoying a few puffs of my habit. A local arrives and seeing the machine is not working, he goes inside to wait. This is a clue, meaning it will be working again shortly – otherwise he would not be waiting. I cannot confirm this of course, as the security guy who speaks a little English is not on duty today – and my Cantonese is definitely not up to this enquiry.

I bum my butt, and the patron rushes out indicating the machine should now be working again. I let him go first – but it is not working just yet. He again disappears inside, and soon I hear convivial clicking’s and thumps emanating from said ATM. I conclude that this is a good time to check, and we are working again. Not only that, but we for once are working in tandem, so I withdraw cash first time, and consider this my lucky day. I indicate to the guy everything is well again, and he comes out to plunder the machine also. I hitch a ride on a motorcycle taxi, and am soon at the ferry ramp. I do not ask him the fare; just simply give him 5 RMB, which is cool and a fair price. Now to see what my Be Loi has been doing in my absence – as she does prove to have gained a high degree of dexterity concerning re-designing our front patio…

Be Loi is fine, but tells me off for being away so long. The yard is actually quite clear of her re-designs, and she still has a little food left; which she finishes a little later. I fuss her and change her water etc; and consider how fortunate I am. Be Loi bombs out to play with the other reprobate local dogs, so I catch up with emails and business stuff. Later she comes inside for the night, and I cook her rice with Chinese small pork (A little like smoked streaky bacon with sugar) which she enjoys immensely. I open the freezer only to find it is extremely hot. This is probably not very good? It also stinks of burnt plastic, and so I switch it off and consider this can be dealt with another time. However, I am delighted to find the fridge is still very cold and the beers pukka. Whilst chilling and sipping, I consider not to throw good money after bad, and may invest in a brand new fridge/freezer soon. Meanwhile Be Loi enjoys my cooking, and I eat a whole tin of corned beef straight out of the can with a fork. Delicious!

Sunday passes with me paying extra attention to Be Loi, then Monday morning sees me paying a visit to the obscure local Police Station in Gaogong in order to begin the process of renewing my Certificate of Temporary Residency. As far as I am aware, there are only two foreigners processed by this small Station, so I am not expecting the guy I need to see to be there, as these are usually civilian staff attachments. As soon as I begin speaking to a slightly startled Policeman, my mobile starts ringing and it is Uncle Sam. This type of thing is starting to happen a lot recently. I cancel the call and sure enough, after their initial surprise we get down to the business in hand, and they inform me in Cantonese that I need to come back again tomorrow morning at 9am. No problem. I call Uncle back and he wants to have lunch, so is on his way. I walk to the restaurant which is 5-minutes up the road and wait with a cold beer. Later they drop me off at a local credit union bank so I can top up the fund covering all our household expenses. I pop in to see the guy in the nearby computer shop and order a copy of Dreamveaver SC3 in English – as both MX and CS4 do not handle Chinese languages in the way I need them to (When used in the webpage code, as opposed to the text you read which is no problem of course). I then buy some treats for Be Loi in the pet shop next door and walk back to the ferry, which docks as I arrive.

Tuesday morning finds me wide awake at 3am – I don’t do ‘clocks’ very well! I take Be Loi with me to the local wet market at 6.30, and later leave her behind when heading-off for the 8.20 ferry. I note the day is a tad foggy, which is disconcerting. Sure enough, the ferry will not be operating for several hours as evidenced by schoolchildren, market traders, and ferry staff all departing for home. I survey the river and it is a total ‘white-out’. It would be foolhardy to attempt a crossing in these conditions, aspecially as we are diagonally crossing one of the busiest shipping lanes in China. Even on the island where colour contrasts are evident, visibility is less than 100 yards. Having decided this isn’t happening for me today, and seeing I have made a special appointment to meet the guy at the Police Station on the mainland this morning; I head off for the island Police HQ collecting Be Loi along the way. I arrive but do not enter immediately, first taking time out to explain my situation to Paul Yuan via my mobile. Once he understands all matters in hand and the need to rearrange the appointment for tomorrow, I hand the phone over to the likeliest suspect. There is no problem, and they promise to ring the mainland Station and let them know my circumstances. Pual later says he also rang the Station and I can attend on either of the next two mornings. Job done, so we head back home. Attending my desk Siu Ying rings and I have to explain to her my plans to travel and see her and Nonni have been put back a day. She is definitely not impressed, but this is a thing I have to do.

Wednesday morning at 9am I am considering catching the next ferry when Paul txts to say he wants to see me. We arrange to meet at the mainland dock at 10am. Today everything is working, and we are soon through formalities at the Police Station, new certificate issued, and I ask him to drop me at the bank ATM in the centre of town. The machine is out of order but will be working again in 20 minutes. This is fine as we still have things to talk about, so we head for a nearby restaurant to complete our discussion. Later I try the ATM which works first time – this is becoming worrying! He then drops me back at the ferry and returning home, I pack for my trip to Toisan tomorrow morning. I confirm this with Siu Ying and she is very happy!

On Thursday morning I am virtually ready to depart when I get a call from somebody at UPS. They want to deliver to me, but they only speak Mandarin. I again ask Pual for assistance, only to discover we cannot ring them back because their number is a catchall that goes into a selection process, before telling us all lines are busy, and then automatically disconnecting. After talking and then txting about various options with Paul, I get a call from a girl who speaks good English. Arrangements are made for her to call Paul. Later I get a txt message to say the UPS guy will meet me at the mainland dock at 2pm. This is throwing my daily schedule out a lot, but I decide it needs completing, and I will catch the 1pm ferry so as to be early. At 1.30 Paul calls to tell me the UPS guy is at the ferry, as I am waving to him. Paul is on a bad connection and doesn’t understand I am now trying to sign for the package whilst taking to him at the same time. See what I mean about coincidence of phonecalls. This happens a lot in China. I cut the call to Paul short and complete the signing for delivery. I immediately grab a motorbike taxi and he drops me at a place I can catch the Toisan bus. He charges me the local fare, and then worries I may not know which bus to catch so stops to see me safely on the correct coach. I give him a cigarette, and twice tell him I am fine and know exactly which bus I want. He eventually gets the message and leaves to continue his work. I consider that British cabbie would probably not show the same concern for a Chinese person when facing a similar situation in Blighty?

The bus arrives a couple of minutes later, and after boarding I txt Paul to confirm all went well with UPS. I then ring my wife to tell her I am on the bus and already at Hoksan bus station. The time is now 2pm, so things are progressing extremely well! I arrive in Toisan just after 3pm and marvel just how littl time this trip took. These coaches are amazing things, and probably the fastest vehicles on the road. I look for Siu Ying – who is nowhere to be seen, and is also incommunicardo. I suffer the hawking private drivers loitering with intent outside of the main bus station plaza for a few minutes, before heading off for a beer at one of the nearby street restaurants. All larger bus stations in China have these, and you can buy food and drinks here at all hours of the day and night. I spy a likely establishment and enroute bump into Dai Lo, Siu Ying’s eldest Brother. He immediately asks me if I need something to eat, which I decline adding that I am after a beer. He then escorts me to a table and orders beer for me. He is drinking Chinese tea as he still has work to finish later. I am not sure if we met by accident, or whether Siu Ying asked him to meet me. Anyway, I enjoy his company whilst we manage to chat a little and catch up with one anothers lives.

Today is very hot and I am wearing a Tee-shirt. The last few weeks have been bitterly cold, amplified by living on the island. To highlight the welcome contrast – tonight will find me sleeping naked on top of the bedcovers, whereas one week ago I was wearing jumpers, sweatshirts, and a couple of heavy-duty anoraks all under the heaviest quilt we have. Siu Ying eventually arrives at 4.30 laden down with shopping. I am very happy to see her, and well chilled from a couple of cold beers. I quite fancy a bite to eat, but she is hurrying home to feed Rhiannon, so we catch a local bus, then motorcycle taxis, and are at her parents home by 5pm.

And that about wraps things up for this missive. I have tried to highlight when transportation in China works, and what happens when it doesn’t. I have also learnt to avoid stressful travel situations, like spending all day on buses travelling to or from Hong Kong. Travelling often includes hotels and staying places, so I hope you found the interlude in Hong Kong entertaining. In particular, I made a wise choice by spending an extra night in Hong Kog and coming directly home on the ferry next morning. Had I not done so then I would have spent 5-hours of Friday evening travelling back by coach to Foshan, needing to then find a hotel overnight at 11pm (N problem); followed by another couple of hours travelling to face the next morning. Not a wise option considering I returned about the same time the following morning that this route would have taken me, but refreshed and ready for the day ahead.

In our general daily lives we all meet situations that either work, or don’t. It is very easy to allow the stress of timetables and arrangements to interfere with our equilibrium. Sometimes it is far better for us to simply admit that things won’t happen on one day, chill, and see it all work out effortlessly on another occasion.