What a Week that Was!

 

This is an insight into what I do, which I hope you will find both informative and funny.

 

Friday 22nd July 2005

 

Today my new PA Kenny is coming round and we will review last weeks work and plan for next week. She is a tad late and I am in active mood, so begin to sweep the floors as they are a mess. Before I finish Kenny arrives with her friend Frank, who is giving me and my friend Folora Cantonese lessons. We had the first lesson last night and he is keen to know how much studying I have done, erm … I dodge the question by saying I am too busy with work and promise to have a look later.

 

Although Kenny is only 21 and has just finished her second year of four at University, she has taken to the roll of PA extremely well and I am delighted with her work. She arrives with several translations I had requested, and a list of things she has done. It has become apparent that many Chinese businesses do not read their emails, so we have changed approach to direct phone calls = we call to tell them to check their email. They say they will check the email, but ask us if we can fax the information instead. Yes we can, but thanks to Microsoft I cannot set the default fax encoding to one that renders Chinese characters, so everything that is not English is converted to gobbledegook and looks like a cross between Cyrillic and Arabic. Ho-hum!

 

We complete: current review, work, plans etc, do emails and phone calls, then head out on the streets. 1st stop is a local water retailer, as the temperature is between 36 and 39 degrees and I am drinking around four litres of water per day! A 1.5 litre bottle costs between 2 and 3 RMB.

 

  • Option 1:              Buy 60 bottles of water containing 5 gallons each for 7RMB = that’s a lot of water!
  • Option 2:              Buy a water machine for Y295, and bottles as required at 8 RMB each

 

I decide to think about it.

 

Next stop is the business cards shop, and I place an order for 200 at a cost of Y43. These cards are double sided, one in English and the other in Chinese. They feature two dragons opposed with a pearl in the middle. It represents the Dragon of the Pearl River and sounds a lot in English like ‘Jew gong long wong’. It is a significant name for Chinese peoples, and I had to ensure the dragon graphic was a golden dragon that did not have 5 claws (5 being the number of claws on an Imperial Dragon, and use by ordinary mortals was punishable by death!). Neither could I use a three clawed dragon, as these are Japanese. A dragon is born when a Carp jumps out of a river and flies – or so the story goes. Chinese dragons do not have wings, and are benevolent, unlike their Western counterparts. I will spare you the technicalities of Chinese Dragon lore, but suffice to say mine had four claws.

 

Our plan was then to visit some travel agencies, but I decide time is against us, so take Kenny and Frank to a Canadian restaurant called Martino’s. Uncle Sam, a friend from Hong Kong (HK) wants me to create a Western style coffee shop and bar in the foyer of a disused hotel on an island near Jiu Jiang. I wanted to get Kenny and Frank’s reactions to a lounge bar as we would know it in the West. The style was perfect, although business issues of implementation and design were raised during the course of our meal, and funding haha!

 

I decide it is time to end the day, and so return to clear my emails and look for webhosting companies.

 

Saturday

 

A day off, especially as Kenny is starting French lessons – poor thing! But later she is on the phone: We have contact with the boss of a printing company who wants to know all about my company. Later still, and a local travel agency wants my portfolio … Kenny starts requesting some video footage of my previous TV ads and programs. I get through a ton of emails, Find Pearls for Dragons to chase, and tidy up the week.

 

Sunday

 

I meet Kenny at 11 AM with a truck of books, brochures and pamphlets – she is impressed and she notes to call these printers on Monday. I send email to UK partners confirming commitment and quality, quickly receiving a positive response. Cool! I watch TV; The Springboks beat those damned Aussies for the Mandela Trophy in Rugby Union, and this is followed by Formula 1 Gran Prix. I am very tired and have an early night.

 

Monday

 

I awaken at 5 AM – Oh-err! Today I leave at 8am to take an Australian businessman to see and buy bamboo products, a 2-day trip … I hope I get a good commission on this!

 

In UK we call it ‘Sod’s Law’ or ‘Murphy’s Law’. In China we simply say ‘Here is China!’

 

We arrive in the local town of Long Jiang 15 minutes early due to lack of traffic. Jeff the Aussie businessman and a good friend is ready and waiting for us, whilst his extremely good PA Stephanie (Step) arrives shortly after. Jeff and I chat and I mention that I have just sorted some printing companies for export to UK. Wow! Jeff has already done this for Australia and we conclude quality has to be monitored closely, but it is a good resource/product to export. I am encouraged here, and note to contact Jeff again about this before I sign any contracts.

 

Step arrives and we head for Uncle’s kindergarten – he calls it his ‘kin-der-ry-garden’ and I expect from there to go to a place called Guang Ning in Northern Guangdong Province near Guilin. We have tea and sit around and chat, then drink more tea. His ‘Sister’ Hester arrives from Hong Kong with a suitcase. We are introduced, then sit again to drink even more tea. Hmmm! Then a journalist called Mr Wong arrives and we all leave: Me, Kenny, Jeff, Step, Sam, Hester, Wong and Driver – a young man who I know from previous has the hots for Kenny lol. This could get interesting! We stop at a place in Long Jiang and a local English teacher who can’t actually speak very much English joins are party = the minibus is now quite full.

 

After an hour I notice we are in Foshan City, close to where I live … so maybe we could have been picked up here and saved a couple of hours of travelling and hanging around? It’s best not to dwell on these things.

 

Via Kenny I chat to Wong, who ia also a teacher and promoter of Events. He wants to know if I can help him create an international Tour for Traditional Chinese Arts – Kung Fu, Lion Dance, Acrobatics, singers and Chinese instruments. I say we need to include snippets from Chinese Opera and he agrees. We decide on a figure of 30 people + I maintain we also need two more as manager and assistant/translator. I take some time to consider options of bringing this tour to Europe and think it can be done. I will need to work out the variables and profit margin of course, but I am sure I know some Promoters in UK? Do you?

 

3 hours of bumpy roads later, we get to our destination and have late lunch with the local government representatives. They are charming and I leave with a stomach full of roast pork and crackling – yum yum!

 

Next we go to the local bamboo furniture and products factory – time to do business. Well, that’s what Jeff and I thought was the plan. Jeff looks around the showroom and sees many things he would like to buy. We then wait another 15 minutes for the owner to rock-up and we try to get prices from him. Reluctantly he gives Jeff a couple of retail prices before slinking off. Hey up! This guy wants to order several container loads of product and spend Australian money. We discover where the Manager is hiding, and even more reluctantly he gives another quote before walking out! Jeff is more confused than I am, especially as the local government is promoting this. We decide to cut our losses and leave. Just then the Boss’s wife turns up and starts talking a little more business. We are still being offered the retail price, not trade price for a 40 foot container full – but she tries to explain that they are the only factory and make all the bamboo products in this area. They will make anything we design, OK. But they can’t really sell anything to us because they have already made enough money and don’t want the hassle of new business, and especially of the volume Jeff wants to buy. They also want to take complete control of the export process (And associated profits), which is something Jeff has had serious problems with in the past. This is why he now uses Stephanie to handle all his exports from China.

 

Kenny learns a lot and works well with Step. Whilst they all talk up business I sneak off outside for a cigarette – well nothing has happened yet, nor is likely too from what I can discern. I am joined by Hester who is interested to know if I am interested in joining her jewellery business. We agree that I can build a website to market their products, which in addition to the normal ranges of rings, earrings etc, also includes sales of precious stones and dust-pictures. We arrange to meet in Hong Kong during September, when she will show me her Brother’s factory. It soon becomes apparent that they only have traditional designs and need a designer as well. Wow! My girlfriend Yupa is really into jewellery design and I can see a way for us to be together and make money as well. I suggest she becomes their designer, but we are interrupted before I get a reply. Rejoining the group I worry that Jeff is getting mighty pissed-off, but he is a cool guy and indicates he is willing to write the two days off as an impromptu and well deserved holiday. Of all the foreigners I have met, I guess the Aussies are closest to my heart – except their damned cricket team of course : -)

 

We then stop at a Jade outlet which is almost opposite, and we all are impressed by the workmanship. Many of the items are jewellery or small keepsakes. However I mention this because the star display is a life-sized eagle standing about 5 feet high by ten feet wide. Well, it’s damned big anyway and beautifully carved from Nephrite in one piece. It must have taken years for the craftsman to make. The price tag is several hundred thousand RMB, which is probably a bargain in the West. Awesome!

 

Heading back into town we then go to a sort of school. Entering via the basketball pitch, we go up some rickety stairs to a large room which turns out to be one of the most excellent Kung Fu academies in Guangdong Province. They have previously won awards at both national and international level. Wong is into this in a big way, and appears to be a supporter of their club. We are then treated to a display / rehearsal by children of junior ages – I’d guess at between 4 and 14 years old. First the younger or less proficient perform acrobatics and such like. These are then followed by the older and/or more proficient. The next performance is with a Chinese spear type of thing, and completed by a display of swordsmanship – using real swords! This is quite special (And would obviously be banned in the West). However, I do find it stunning, and the star for me was a young girl of perhaps eight years of age – truly remarkable skill! I actually single her out for personal praise after the performances finish, and she speaks English! Isn’t it always the way of things over here, that when you think you have finally put ‘China’ into a box, something else happens to completely throw your perspectives? The girl tells me in good English that she is in fact only 7 years old. Durrr! Amazing!

 

The performance ended, we head back down the rickety stairs, and re-entering the Basketball arena, are greeted by a full crowd waiting for events to start. Apparently we are the Guests of Honour, and so take up seats in the centre. The stage is set for ‘Lion Dance’, which I have seen before and wasn’t overly impressed – you know, people wearing lion costumes jumping around outside a new shopping retail store, etc. This is from a different planet. A hush descends upon the eager crowd as two sets of Lion dancers appear at opposite ends of the arena. The band strikes up typical Lion Dance music, with a resonating gong, a drum; and five others swapping traditional instruments as suits the act best. This is the first time I have witnessed the Poles version, and wonder at the remarkable skill of the performers. There are about ten poles, ranging from a few feet high, to the main jump-walk that is aver 10-feet high. Each ‘Lion’ has two people inside, one controlling the head, whilst the other is bent over to form the back and rear. They have to work as a team, and precision is key. At first the lion is hesitant, and taking a step up, then jumps back in retreat. This process repeats until the lion is on the upper poles. As weight is applied to one of the central poles, it collapses and the lion plays at pulling itself upright again. This then leaves a very large gap for crossing = probably a standing jump of about ten feet x two people inside the costume + taking off and landing on what can best be described as a standard scaffolding pole with 4 inch square top. I was totally blown away by this, and recommend anyone to see a proper performance like this one. Simply Stunning!

 

Reaching the end, the ‘Lion’ then has to retrieve a reward, which is done using the mouth apparatus and jumping. The lion then takes on a jaunty air and retraces its steps. The previous caution was only to please the crowd, as now this lion is leaping around all over the place without a second’s ponderance. This is echoed on the second set of apparatus. The show is not yet over, as the two lions then battle for other rewards on the ground. It is easy to see who the senior team is, and I discover they have represented China internationally … and talking to these two boys after the show, I discover that they also speak good English, and are 15 years old. Wow! Apparently they were placed in last years All Asia Lion Dance Competition. I then go walkabout and meet other performers and organisers, before I am recaptured and told it is time to leave.

 

Authors Comment:

Reposting this some 6 years later, I still vividly remember these two performances, and the Lion Dance in particular ranks as one of the most special things China has ever shown me.

 

We are then shown to the very best local hotel, and are given a house to share. It has many bedrooms, but one too few, so I end up sharing an enormous two double bedded room with Jeff. We decide there are no issues, so chill, watch TV, shower and change.

 

We are late and the last to report for evening detail! This is to be a meal in the poshest restaurant in town, courtesy of the Boss of the bamboo factory from earlier … you know, the one that won’t sell anything to us. Durrrh? We have a great time and eat some fantastic food. I am seated next to a guy (Mr Wang I think? I am still hopeless at remembering Chinese names), who has exceedingly good (If a tad rusty) English, and used to be a designer of aeroplanes for the Chinese airforce. He invites us to see his gaff, which is also some sort of research institute – and I wish Yupa were her with me to share these moments. I sneak off for a cigarette, as although I am free to smoke if I choose to in China; but I hate smoking in a room full of non-smokers. 95% of Chinese men smoke, but I appear to be spending the evening with the other 5%.

 

Back in the minibus and a short hop to a bridge, where we disengorge and the following walk takes us up a steep hill to arrive at ‘The Research Establishment’, a most curious modern building set in a ‘Y’ shape. We have great views from the top, but the route from the 2nd to 3rd floors took us outside and around the building a full 359 degrees. How odd! I actually quite liked this building, even if it were more suited to being a rich boys imagining in LA – Here is China!

 

We eventually go back to the house and chat. Representatives from local government arrive shortly after and start talking kindergartens with Uncle Sam. Jeff and I decide a beer is more appropriate, so head off to check out the local nightlife. We complete our escape with Kenny, Step, Hester and Funny Boy (Our new name for the young Driver).

 

Nightlife? I don’t really think so – more like night-dead! I am sure Jeff and I would have done a street bar, but Hester insisted on a bit more class so we end up in a Karaoke palace and enjoy the slow side of boredom. Kenny and Step are good singers, as is Hester when she plucks up the nerve. Funny-Boy continues to hit unmercifully on Kenny, who is having third thoughts about him by now and wants to escape hehe! He also maintains that he can drink me under the table, except I drink two to his one! Then we have an excuse to leave, as Uncle Sam has called to say he wants to go out for supper and needs Funny-Boy to drive him. Uncle is asleep when we return to the house – so that would be a ruse then?

 

Jeff and I do the sleep stuff; he is concerned that I may snore. I awake at 4am for a toilet break and catch him giving the snores some hehe! He enjoys a good night’s sleep.

 

Tuesday

 

Awaking I already know the plan without being told: Traditional Chinese breakfast, which will include a lot of food, but no coffee!

 

I presume the day will go something like: Breakfast, do something, lunch, go home…

 

I was right! I could have anything Chinese I wanted for breakfast, but no coffee. I settle for a couple of hard-boiled eggs, as the Chinese have not worked out how to put sugar in them yet. Afterwards we pose for snapshots and hit the road. We try a couple of places that say ‘Coffee Bar’ outside. One turned out to be a nightclub, whilst the other was a straight Chinese restaurant – and both were closed. As a last resort we head for the town’s one and only supermarket, where I find tins of prepared Nescafe! Fantastic – Nescafe in tins, and apart from being cold, it is most welcome. I buy eight of them and heading out, drink two before we reach the charabanc. I am soon feeling human again as the caffeine hits my system … and off we go with a very happy and now fully functioning Jonno to see … a kindergarten. Oh-err! This is a treat for Uncle Sam and we are welcome, but not expected to attend – what a relief! I tell Funny-Boy to take us to another bamboo showroom which we passed yesterday, as I am determined to try and do something positive for Jeff.

 

Well; it appears that this showroom may be connected with the factory from yesterday, or may not be? The girls inside are not sure who the owner is, and the Manager is not there today. We buy some small bamboo stuff, and I toy with the idea of getting some bamboo steamers – which are akin to a Chinese ‘Bain Marie’. I am introduced to the pleasures of drinking bamboo tea, a most forgettable experience. Hester informs me this will be excellent tonic for my cough and poorly ear. I later lean that bamboo health products can cure virtually anything, whilst my internal music system appropriately kicks in with ‘Lilly the Pink’ by Scaffold. I also seem to remember one of the three artists involved was related to Paul McCartney – possibly a younger brother, or similar? In turn, it is revealed that Hester’s main business is ‘Hong Kong Health Products’, and she is into all of them! She then feeds me ‘Nine times burnt bamboo’ tablets for the rest of our trip, which taste just like burnt salt.  

 

Funny-Boy receives a call, and goes off to collect the others. They then look around the showroom, whilst Hester feeds me more bamboo tea. I am not sure I like this stuff actually, but grit my teeth and smile through the ordeal.

 

Did I mention the rest of our trip just now. I would file this under ‘miscellaneous’.

 

I am fine, Jeff is cool, and Kenny is learning how to be a real PA during this summer job. Chinese university students are expected to take a summer job that correlates to their studies, which we would term ‘Employability’. At the end of her employment I will have to write a report, supported by picture + video if possible, and give this to her in support of her portfolio. She will be graded accordingly by University staff, who will then add this to her overall degree assessment. In UK this would be under the CATS system. Here in China is it probably best filed under the MOUSE system (More Outside Useless Summer Entertainment). Meanwhile, Uncle Sam appears to have his own agendae and I am enjoying myself, so let’s do the rest of Tuesday…

 

Regrouping for the next phase of our journey, we stop and the English teacher who doesn’t speak much English gets out. He is soon replaced by a young man and child, complete with guitar and a lot of bags and stuff. I am not sure what is happening, and nobody I ask seems to know either. We are headed for somewhere, and will probably go back to Guang Ning for lunch. I think we may return to civilization for dinner. How wrong was I!

 

First we head for an amusement park, except it is a bit low key but does have a mighty fine water wheel. There are also some charabancs with totally bamboo bodywork and an intriguing aspect. There are some Hawkers stalls selling … bamboo products, and Uncle is intrigued by some of the inscribed tablets. I am actually more interested in the people hereabouts who actually make these things, often whilst sitting by the roadside. It’s a bit like basket weaving, but not as you know it. However, I do conclude you have to be mentally insane to live here (Kung Fu school excluded), and wonder if the restaurant sells Long Island Iced Tea? Nope, it only sells bamboo food and bamboo tea. Hester thinks this is Fab! Jeff and I groan feigning polite enthusiasm. I am enamoured by the thought the locals must have worked out how to make ‘moonshine’ from bamboo – but I seem to be the only one interested in this diversion. I guess its back to the charabanc then, and we all pile aboard. Ho-hum!

 

After 2 hours of bumpy roads we rock-up at this bee place that does vegetarian food. The squid was delicious, as was the beef by the way. Afterwards we go to a nearby Buddhist temple set into a hillside. Funny-Boy drops us off near the entrance, and then reverses over a ton of fruit left out to dry in the sun. Many arguments thus ensue, and Kenny comments this is not auspicious. I think somebody paid some money to sort things out – Gezzz! Cantonese women can’t half shout a lot!

 

It was not really my scene, so I went a little way up to the first temple, and gave a ‘thumbs-up’ to my mate ‘Mr Big Fat Buddha’. The local Monks were horrified that I then ‘High-fived him’, but for me, the Buddha remains a man, and by that, I intend perhaps the man I aspire to be. = a better person in this life. Chinese people do see Buddhism as a religion, which I am not at ease with. Western Buddhism is all about growing as a person, not worship – which I won’t do. It is my prerogative. Mind you, I have not sorted the re-incarnation bit yet, except that next time around I would quite like to come back as one of my Father’s dogs – perhaps the Bullmastiff named George?

 

An hour or so passes, and we finally hit the road again. We endure another few hours of bumpy roads, as they become narrower and bumpier. In order to impress Kenny with his driving skills, Funny-Boy drives faster and faster. Well, that’s a winner then. Not!

 

Eventually we land, not in civilization per sae, but at a pig farm in the middle of the behind of nowhere. OK, is this in anyway way, shape or form related to selling bamboo furniture to Australia. Kenny ticks me off for asking such a stupid question – of course it is! Durrrh! However, a look in her eyes suggests I am not far from the point either. I make the decision that next time I become embroiled in one of these excursions, I will pack my hip flask suitably plenished with something like Pusser’s or Lemon Hart. Well, if you’re going to be in for a rum old time, you may as well enjoy some also : -)

 

We are impressed, as this guy has 3, 000 pigs, all in sty’s (Hmmm?) and he uses only a maximum of 20% of his land. He tells us the other 80% Jeff and I can develop – maybe for a business, summer camp, or anything really. Say 2, 000 acres at our immediate disposal. The owner is also very proud of his natural water, so after visiting the piglet nurseries, we endure numerous cups of Chinese Tea, accompanied by him extolling the virtuous water. I ask him if he has ever considered selling the water, which seems to alarm him greatly, and he asks me why he should ever want to sell his water? I laugh internally as my mind, which is somewhat focussed on obtaining a water machine and associated carbuoy – decides to wander of into the realms of possibility concerning marketing campaigns: Pig Springs Mineral Water, made from our own dedicated pig-swill and excrement. No – that won’t work - hahaha! Unfortunately I make the mistake of whispering this out-loud, whereupon Jeff thinks it’s a great idea. I conclude he is probably pulling my wire, but he appears to be very serious. Then I remember some other Aussie firsts in commercial advertising, and open that he may actually be serious on this one. Well, consider what they call some of their wines! Jacob’s Creek in Aussie speaking doesn’t actually refer to a body of water, but perhaps a bodily hazard! I battle bravely on, as this tea does not taste of bamboo – which is a bit like diluted carbolic soap … and don’t ask me why I know about how that tastes. I was an inquisitive child, OK. Let’s leave that one there. In fact, I would very much like to leave here, wherever this is (?), and get back to some form of civilization. We decide to give the spring water thingymagig a miss, as this guy has probably never even seen bottled water in his life. The water was very good though. In passing I say to Jeff that in Oz we could label this as ‘Pigs Piss’. He howls with laughter, and then tells me “It’s a winner - Gowd on yur m8!”  He suggest we sell it in corked champagne bottles, and I know he is taking the piss, just as I am lol. Meanwhile, Kenny has excused herself from within earshot, and I guess she was perhaps taking us literally. However, Step is not phased at all, and just considers us to be ‘Stupid Boys’ - which we probably are?

 

Out of our party, I am developing the deepest respect for Step. We have been friends now for over a year, yet I discover she is a very clever Lady, but open to the mistakes of others humanity. She is not Chinese, but a Malaysian Piano teacher by right, and I learn her Grandfather has roots in this part of China. She is fluent in at least 7 languages, and can switch instantly from one to another – even in mid sentence and without a break. That is some small skill!

 

Bless him, but Jeff did try to do the organic produce thingymagig; but it is a world apart from the farm we are at now, in the middle of nowhere. We were thinking along the lines of Western style produce displays an servicing, + marketing. Jeff explains that companies and better class restaurants will pay a premium for natural and organic produce. The owner’s son totally misses the point, stating that most pigs are reared in other provinces. However, he is very proud to state he has increased the pig herd by over 2, 00 during the last year. That’s a lot of piglet’s! However, this is all the wrong type of intensive farming, and I ask him why he only uses sty’s – why not let the pigs run free? He appraises me as if I may be Commander Zogg from the spaceworld conurbation Aspirates Expulsae. But I simply don’t get this bit – why not let the pigs roam free? He has 2, 000 acres at his disposal, which is ideal for pigs, and/or he could get into wild boar, also esteemed in China. Maybe do a shoot or two for rich clients? By this time both Step and Kenny are translating this conversation; Jeff is left bemused and I am drinking tea for England (Or should that be China?). I do wonder what we could grow on the remaining 1, 800 acres? Maybe start a village co-operative or community project.

 

This area is very poor. It would seem to be the ideal place to develop an ethical trading produce facility with somebody like ‘Body Shop’. Except Bodyshop won’t come to China because the new USA owner’s don’t agree with some of Beijing’s national policies = Very dumb. I notice they have another new outlet every time I visit Hong Kong … and Hong Kong is a part of China. I also met a Chinese businessman recently who want’s a franchise or two in Foshan and Guangzhou. I emailed Body Shop twice, but got they couldn’t be bothered to reply.

 

Back to the story, and we are still at the pig farm in the middle of outer nowhere, somewhere in Guangdong

 

So we enjoy more chatting, and enjoy even more tea made with special water. We agree that we can develop a fun-farm and summer camp here. Great! You have any investors? Nope! Neither do we - However, we do want to market your excellent water, which is greeted by consternation and blank looks! Ho-hum! Good byeee!

 

We leave and after half an hour of passing fields being ploughed by oxen with wooden ploughs, we finally hit upon a tarmac road. Yippie! Within the last mile I had counted 15 oxen with ploughs plus 7 mechanical versions which employ the front end from a ‘Chinese tractor’. There were also countless families doing it all by hand with shovels – the Chinese paddy fields are one of life’s hardest places for sure. I may have mentioned to you previously that the traditional Chinese greeting is ‘Hello, have you eaten (rice) today?’ After witnessing at first hand the paddy fields and people turning mud by hand, I understand better why this great nation has a fear of starvation … Have you eaten today?

 

It turns out we were not actually very far from Gao Ming, so 30 minutes later we arrive outside the vegetarian restaurant in Long Jiang. This is actually a very good eatery, even for those accustomed to eating meat. However I am very tired and conspire with Kenny to try and make our escape. However, this doesn’t really work out, so we sit down to dine in a small private room. The staff recognise me immediately and most say Hello in English. Uncle helped set up this restaurant, and advises them on cooking techniques and new dishes. I was also present a few months ago for their grand opening ceremony which included many local dignitaries, plus an English teacher called Caroline from UK, and myself of course. Looking around the main room I see various pictures of us. I still retain local celebrity status then.

 

The private room is actually ok, and Uncle chooses a wide range of dishes.  Meals with Uncle always start with soup, and on this occasion he has ordered sweet pumpkin soup. I usually find Chinese rice to be a little dry, so ask uncle to order special rice which is served in a mild coconut milk sauce. This is joined by one of my favourite dishes, potatoe and broccoli curry. This also has small bits of capsicum peppers and celery in it and is very delicious. Uncle also enjoys this immensely, but the others are not so keen. Other dishes arrive including: what looks and tastes remarkably like salmon, string mushrooms wrapped in something, a flat Chinese omelette with fine pieces of some green vegetable in it, sweet and sour something that resembles pork balls, and several other dishes of indeterminate origin or resemblance.

 

The meal draws to a close and I have a small and friendly argument with Jeff over who will pay the bill, and shortly afterwards Kenny and I depart. Kenny is very concerned about finding a taxi in a town that doesn’t have any of its own, but she forgets I am a local hereabouts. I take her for a short walk and we soon find where the visiting taxis hang out. You see – it always works out.

 

During our time in the charabanc Kenny continued teaching me very simple Cantonese, and I now seem to have remembered how to ask somebody if they want to do something with me. I am very pleased with my new language skills : -)

 

Arriving back in Foshan I am dropped off first, as I’m still not too good with giving taxi drivers directions. The taxi fare is fixed by agreement earlier, so I hand Kenny enough to cover it and head for my gaff. The hour is quite late by now, but I check emails and chat to Yupa and Carla on messenger. Carla is now running an independent record label, and is building a new website to host the expansion of business and direction. Later I tell Carla about Kenny’s friend JJ who has recently opened a recording studio in Foshan. Apparently he is able to record full bands or single artists and mix it in a karaoke sort of way as required. He then masters it and produces a CD. I mention that maybe we could we should start a Chinese version of her Melodrift and she is interested. Later she also gets the support of her partner Wes, so I promise to look into possibilities. She sends me some documents and contracts which will come in very useful.

 

I also have a quick chat with Step, and she sends me a load of photos from our recent trip. I retire to the living room and consider that life in China is never a normal state of events. I fall asleep and later rise to a new day.

 

Wednesday

 

I already know this day will not happen for Kenny or myself as we are both exhausted from our recent trip. Working from home, Kenny does arrange two appointments for next week and does some research plus a few minor translations. She has also researched Chinese webhosting solutions, but they are not really what I am looking for except for the top end ones that are almost as expensive as their UK counterparts. I mention my news from Carls, and she says she will arrange a meeting with JJ to visit his recording studio.

 

I finish sweeping the floors – a job I started on Friday, and make a note to mop them sometime soon.

 

I then head out to the main local hospital, as my right ear has been blocked solid since Sunday. This place is massive and more like an airport in size. I eventually work out where ENT must be, and loiter around with intent whilst staff rush about and people queue. I eventually attract attention from somebody who speaks a little English. I learn that before they will treat me I will have to pay. That seems a bit Irish to me, as how will the teller know how much my treatment will cost? I locate the pay section, which is rammed; and eventually decide this is going nowhere. I retrace my steps, and then carry on to the local private hospital. This place is far better. I get greeted in reception and then shown directly to a Doctor, who speaks a little English. I explain the problem and he knows just what to do. He then gives me a prescription and a nurse takes me to the counter where my paperwork is processed and I pay what is required. I am then led into the treatment room, which has several others attached to drips. Chinese do not give aimless bulk injections into a convenient muscle. Instead all medicines are administered intravenously, which makes a lot more sense. I am seated and the Doctor reappears with a very large needle. I watch querulously whilst a nurse tops it up with ice cold water from the tap. My misgivings soon bear fruit, as the syringe (Minus needle) is lifted to my ear and depressed quickly. My senses jolt as the water enters my ear, and then they pear into it to check progress. That hurt! Before I can stop them a second icy jet is administered and now my ear is in some pain. I quickly get out of the seat as a third one is being prepared. I know this is not going to work, and thanking them profusely, leave as quickly as possible.

 

I realise then the only way to get this properly sorted is to visit a foot massage centre, with the one in the centre of town being my number one best bet. They have an excellent ear cleaning specialist who has a small light and many delicate tools especially for probing around in ones orifices. But first I head home and try using the bicarbonate of soda a friend brought me out from England some months ago. I let it soak a little and then open a box of one thousand orange stick and start probing around. I get stereo hearing on a couple of occasions, but this doesn’t last for long. After using 70 or so my ear is quite sore, so I give it a rest for the time being.

 

Some hours later I am working at my computer and put on some music. I check the headphones are actually working on both channels with my good ear, but still find I can hear nothing from the right channel. Out with the orange sticks and bicarb again. This time I do get hearing in that ear which appears to last, but I am not convinced it is 100% yet. I will have to go and see the ear woman quite soon. I stop trying to use the headphones and put on the main speakers instead, whilst I continue to work at my desk. I become quite absorbed in my task, when I feel something brush my cheek. Startled I look around, only to see what appears to be an Oxo cube lying nearby on the floor. Well that wasn’t there a moment ago? Examining this I am horrified to discover it is ear wax. I am a clean person! Uggggg! I start probing again as I still can’t hear properly with my right ear. After 30-minutes of probing I know I have found my eardrum, but my ear is very painful by now. Time for some appropriate anaesthetic for satisfying both my physical and emotional needs. Ahhh, Bacardi and coke, excellent!

 

I wrap up work whilst listening to a Liu Fang CD. She is a brilliant artist and has a fantastic voice. Later I watch the DVD Mr and Mrs Smith – which I hear has just been released in UK cinemas. At some point during the film I fall asleep on the settee, having already decided to rename Woden’s Day to ‘Wooden Ear Day’. What do you think?

 

Thursday

 

Ahha! Thor’s Day has arrived, and you would think he was using his hammer to bludgeon the skies above. But I know this is China, so it must be the Dragon of the mighty Pearl River giving bountiful life-blood water to the people. Thank you most wonderful dragon, it is 6 am and very wet outside!

 

I have asked Kenny to come round later today for our weekly official meeting, so make a coffee and fall asleep to the DVD Andromeda Series 2. I awaken to find the DVD has finished and I have an untouched cup of cold coffee. I drink the coffee and its ok-ish, but also make a fresh and hot one. Looking around I decide I should actually put the brush away, and am very pleased with my freshly swept floors. I must mop them … later. I also fell asleep with the air conditioner on and feel very cool! Unfortunately the rest of my gaff is at 38 degrees, the rain outside has stopped, and the smog has come out.

 

Kenny rocks-up around 11 am with Chinese medicines for my cough. She is a moon! (Chinese for ‘She is a star!’). She then goes into the kitchen and proceeds to boil bits of bark and twigs and berries in a saucepan. After an hour or so of her witches brew bubbling away in the makeshift cauldron, she presents me with the resulting fluid + she added sugar for me to taste. Bless! It is ok actually and I drink a whole bowl of it. She explains that I will need to have a second and third dose of the potion, so I assure her I know what to do.

Aside:

It is now Sunday, and I appear to have a mess of green goo in a saucepan, with bits of things that used to be alive in it. It smells akin to a stagnant pool in the height of summer. Maybe I will skip the second dose then?  I guess I should actually throw it all out before it turns black, or starts growing! Crikey!

 

Anyway, thank you Kenny, one dose was enough and my cough has vanished. I will actually use Chinese medicine again, so please pardon my Western irreverence – this stuff works, and that’s good enough for me!

 

Argggggh! Mrs ‘Big Boss’ female Buddha thingymagig is almost out of water. Yupa says I have to give her water and 4 oranges … or maybe I could introduce her to orange juice instead? Perhaps if I use the stuff that has bits in the bottom she will find this acceptable? I will give it a try and see what happens. My mate, Mr ‘Big Fat Buddha’ is still laughing, so I guess that’s ok then.

 

Gezzz! Thursdays! I hide the mop (So as to avoid temptation), water the Buddha, and drink witches brew for breakfast – and the real day hasn’t even begun yet!

 

Kenny and I review and then plan ahead. Our real day will be spent on the streets of Foshan (Cantonese = F-saan-a); business cards will be ready for collection at 3.30, so first step is to adjourn our meeting to lunch in a local restaurant. We dine on sliced beef, gnarly black toad in black bean sauce, and a superb Sichuan Chicken – Mmmmmmmm! Delicious (Cantonese = Ho mai; I think?).

 

Later we go to the business card shop and collect my first business cards in China. Wow! Good job! I query the closeness of the headers to the dragons, as you will; but this is a Chinese thingymagig and works for them, so who an I to argue with dragon lore? I order another 500 cards for a cost of … around 10 pounds Sterling. Later I reflect that I do not maybe want my room number on the card. I do want a proper fiery dragon pearl, and I need to add my website address, when I find a decent webhosting service – so I am 95% happy. On second thoughts, make that 85%, as I am sure I would be better served with two cards; one in Chinese and the other in English. Then I could enlarge the dragons and move ‘Products and Services’ to the back. Maybe next time, as I desperately need business cards pronto!

 

Time to tap up the local travel agents, and they go in order: local new private business, regional business, and national version. Reversed order suits us best, so meeting the national guy he simply says ‘yes’, but never smiled once. The regional one was a tad better, and they also had a specialist department catering for the needs of travellers in foreign parts – it was ok and maybe ideal for Chinese travelling to the West. However, I didn’t get a real business vibe here either – it was more along the lines: ‘We will provide the service and you will pay for it’. Not quite what I was looking for, as I need some proactivity.

 

I really liked travel agent numero uno, who we visit last. Entering we are soon in discussions with the owner. His main business is running a fleet of Foshan buses, and this travel agency is a sideline. However, he is very interested in our ideas and really gets into the Kung Fu school we propose. He then starts discussing the production of posters and general promotion, to the point where he asks if we would halve the cost of promotion to Chinese people with them? He’s putting money into this then! Although I could understand little of the Cantonese spoken, I read his expressions and body language, and especially his eyes = this is proactivity! Superb! I was so pleased when Kenny confirmed my observations. Numero Uno rules!

 

Result! So now time to sort some minor personal problems. I take Kenny to ‘gwai wah fo chong’, which is the largest local Chinese supermarket, which is a massive place + upstairs is as big again. On the way I buy hair bands that a boy can wear, as my longer hair is making my neck really hot these days. We go upstairs as I want to purchase a pocket translator that has: English, Mandarin, Cantonese, Pinyin (Mandarin written using the alphabet), and speech. They don’t have any.

 

The girl behind the counter is actually playing with one that has: German, French, Spanish, Russian, S. Korean and Japanese. She then demonstrates the 16 languages it has, and offers us the ‘speech’ version for a few sample words. English and Mandarin are of course included, as is Pinyin. Then it transpires that although it doesn’t actually have ‘Cantonese Language’, if we turn it into ‘Traditional Chinese’ (Which is written Cantonese) – then full functions are available…

 

Here is China!

 

I feel like basing my head against a brick wall! China does this to you quite often. It seems that instead of asking for ‘Cantonese’, we should have asked for ‘Traditional Chinese’. I then discover this thing also has ‘Jyutpin’ included, which for the uninitiated is Cantonese written using the alphabet. Durrrh! Enquiring further, I ascertain it will translate sentences (Not just single words), and am well impressed! The price tag is around Y3k, which is more than I was expecting. However, this is one serious piece of kit, so I take details of it written in Chinese, and decide to review the necessity vs cost over the next few days.

 

The time has now moved on to 4.30 pm, and ideal for catching JJ at his studio. So off we go and soon are welcomed by JJ, who is a lovely guy and has a great studio. Kenny is brilliant, although I remain unconvinced that what I say, and what they understand are equivocal, but we chat about it for several hours. JJ’s Father has some great input, and then his Brother joins us. You know, I really would like to work with these guys, and I am sure they have a great future. I seriously need to check out the China music industry, and especially the government policy regarding copyright issues and royalties; but if the information I have gained so far is sound, then I think we can work together to make this truly international.

 

We leave around half six, and I leave Kenny at a nearby petrol station where her mother will collect her. She actually lives about 5-minutes walk away, but it seems her mother is passing by soon, so I leave her to it. I buy a pack of cigarettes from a local vendor, and head off for a pint to clear my head – what a week!

 

I soon arrive at John’s Bar (no relation), which is a truly western bar and the only place in Foshan that sells a real pint of draft beer = draft Tsing Dao. It is cool and I order a second pint + burger and chips. Wow! No Maccies cardboard in the burger. Apart from this place and Martino’s, there is ONLY MacDonald’s here. Hello Wimpey, Burger King, Wendy’s! I make a mental note to email said companies. I guess I should also email Pizza Express whilst I am at it as well, as they would do a bomb here. Instead we do (and only) have Pizza Hut, which is not in my personal top ten. Neither are they in most Chinese peoples top ten either. Oh, that reminds me, I also have plans for a take-away, but need some proactive support from UK to make this one real. My head is so full of bamboo, sometimes I can’t even see the wood for the trees!

 

I am so pleased I remembered all that, and will ask Kenny for assistance next week. I am now happy and head off to the best foot massage parlour in town, to sort my ear basically. Along the short walk I am accosted by child-beggar-rings and prostitutes. Nightmare! They are basically restricted to this small area of town, where all the best international hotels are. One migrant with a baby on her back shouts ‘fucky-fucky, 150RMB’ at me as we pass. I answer her in Spanish, which quite throws her. I also throw in a bit of French for good luck hahaha!

 

Then the obscurity of it all hits me … am I becoming ‘multi-lingual!’

 

Aside: Both John’s Bar and the Foshan Hotel opposite are where rich foreigners hang out. I am not one of those, but am treated equally. Later an attractive girl offers me full sex for Y200, (say £8), but I ignore her because a child in grubby rags has now attached itself to my leg, whilst banging my thigh with a begging bowl. I bypass this lady of the night with due haste, as I am in love with my girlfriend Yupa, and she is the only girl for me.

 

 I then start to move quickly, as a younger and possibly female child is trying to attach itself to my free leg. I will guess their ages to be around 3 or 4 years old. These children are bought from rural farmers who cannot afford to feed them, or are in contravention of China’s child policy. Somewhere nearby will be their minder, probably an old woman who treats this as a business, and works for the local big boss (Who drives around collecting their earnings in a latest top model Benz. If I gave these kids money, they would not see any of it, although the minder I am sure takes a cut before the big boss arrives. However, there are also a few legitimate migrant beggars with young children on the streets of Foshan – but these are definitely not they. I will never give these people money, even as it breaks my heart in not doing so – as anything I give goes to the rich man controlling them. However, I do consider other ways of doing something positive for them in the future.

 

Back to the present, and child number two fails to grab onto my rapidly moving free leg. Then the one that is still attached starts banging the sharp edge of his bowl into my lower knee cartilage. He is very good at it – and soon leaves my company, sliding several feet down the pavement. The Minder then appears and starts berating me in Mandarin. However, I stop to check this urchin is actually ok, which he is, and chuck him under the cheek, and departing wish him better luck next time.

 

I will give not give these people money, but I will give them food, clothing, or anything else I have that is appropriate. I once offered this Minder KFC fries, and she spat me in the face. Learn your lessons as to whom is actually in need well. That incident finished when her friend threw the food back at me and started calling me a lot of names in some indefinable language. A third then attempted to put the street-scrapping down my trousers. I am not so naive anymore, and simply ignore these parasites + I hope the ‘godfather’ has a fatal accident with his Benz (Mercedes to you and I). However, I do worry about these children. Enough said!

 

I soon arrive at the massage centre and being inducted, ask for a ‘special girl’ (Which means one who is properly trained and knows what she is doing – the other thing is called ‘Extra service by the way’ in case you wondered?). This also means I get VIP service for the duration of my visit. I wait whilst the team assemble, and then a Manageress appears and confirms my requirements. I book for two hours, special girl, a cold beer, and ear treatment. Accepted, she departs quickly as her headphone mike is a chatter of noise.

 

The beer promptly arrives, and I sit and take in the surroundings. I am in a room for two people, with a 48-inch TV opposite. There are also shadow screens on the walls and ceiling, whilst my seat also has a flip-up computer LCD screen complete with mouse and keyboard. I check a couple of unimportant email accounts to pass the time and turn on the sports channel. Then the special girl arrives with a bucket of scented water that is just too hot for me. She exits promptly, and soon returns with cold water, which is added to a point where I am comfortable. I soak my feet whilst the girl administers an upper back massage, and time begins to flow. Some time later I am found lying down on my back in this recliner armchair, when the pedicure guy shows up. He does my toenails with something that looks like a quill, and then uses a straight blade not dissimilar to a flat chisel to hone my callused feet. Perfect job! Some food nibbles arrive and I am truly pampered as the masseuse expertly demonstrates her skills. The two hours is almost up, and still no ear person, which is actually my whole point of being here. The masseuse telephones for confirmation, and she will be here very soon. Time passes whilst I luxuriate in heaven on earth. I query, and then make a third reminder about the ear person, this time projecting an agitated persona. More telephone calls and I am quoted Y150 RMB + given her personal phone number. Hmmm … not quite what I had in envisaged! Mind you…

 

China is a land of promises and miracles. Time is all but up when the excellent ear girl arrives. She proceeds to prod, poke and scrape both my ears. I offer her the bicarb, which she instantly recognises the significance of, even though all lettering is only in English. Within seconds she has my ear working again and I can hear properly in stereo for the first time in almost a week. Wow! I eventually end up with a 2.5 hour massage, a bill for half of the original cost – to cover my inconvenience, and I can hear again! Top Hole! I even tip the ear girl, as she was very well worth waiting for. She should work in a hospital hahaha!

 

I catch a cab home, just in time to chat to Yupa on messenger, then later watch CSI on TV and fall asleep on the sofa.

 

Tomorrow is another week, but I don’t really care – I love my stereo hearing very much!

 

What a Week that Was!